Fuchsia white terry care at home. How to care for fuchsia in a pot at home. The choice of soil for fuchsia and fertilizers

There are those that will grow well in aggressive conditions - even in a greenhouse, even in the yard. Understanding which group the flower was assigned to, it will be easy to organize the right care. The basic conditions for breeding consist of ensuring the moisture content of the atmosphere, watering time and ensuring a safe temperature. The intensity of the sun is one of the critical components. Many of the flowers grown at home can be divided into classes. Others can be bred exclusively in open space. Other species can be bred only at home without the street.

How to care for fuchsia?

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

Pinch the shoots, depending on what shape you decide to give your plant. When forming an ampel, pinching is usually done after the third pair of leaves. When forming a bush, pinch after the second pair of leaves. You should not make more than two pinches on the upper shoots, and it is better to pinch the lower shoots once, otherwise you may not wait for flowering.

Mistakes in care during the growth and flowering of fuchsia. The plant may be hot, as mentioned above, or poor lighting. Direct sunlight depresses a houseplant, from which it suddenly becomes smaller and drops buds, while the roots may suffer from heat. Overfed with fertilizers (nitrogen), or vice versa, there are not enough nutrients (phosphorus-potassium) during budding. The size of the container does not match the size of the root system. Fuchsias bloom after they wrap their roots around the entire lump of substrate in a pot.

For fuchsia worthy content!

Temperature During the growing season, the most favorable range for fuchsia is 18-25 degrees. In summer, especially in August, it behaves well in open ground, but as soon as t exceeds the 30-degree mark, the plant sheds leaves, dries and stops blooming. In a special heat, fuchsia should be taken out to the loggia or balcony, avoiding direct sunlight, leading to the death of the flower. To protect the sensitive roots of the plant from overheating, it is advisable to use a large ceramic pot (plastic containers get very hot).

Lighting All types of fuchsia prefer bright diffused light. They should be grown on the eastern (western) window of the room or in the garden in a comfortable penumbra. This culture does not tolerate daytime heat, but it can easily withstand the morning (evening) sun rays. But a flowering plant can no longer be rearranged and rotated: this can lead to the fall of all flowers and buds.

Watering fuchsia In the spring-autumn period - plentiful - as the top layer of the substrate dries; in winter - moderate. For irrigation, it would be better to use soft settled water. By the end of the growing season, watering is noticeably reduced, and by October-November it is practically stopped. At low temperatures, a fuchsia houseplant is usually watered 1-2 times a month.

Air humidity During the growth period, the leaves are sprayed with a spray bottle in the morning and evening, or, to transfer more humidity, a decorative bowl with pebbles filled with water is placed next to the pot. In autumn and winter, excessive fuchsia moisture is contraindicated, so spraying is stopped during this period.

Fuchsia top dressing For open ground, biofertilizers are the most effective, as for indoors, here you can use any ready-made fertilizers intended for home flowering plants. Frequent top dressing (once a week) is recommended from the end of March; in winter, fuchsias are not fed.

Soil and transplanting Fuchsias are transplanted annually and always in the spring. For this purpose, special substrates from the store or any fertile soil are used, not forgetting about drainage. Sand and humus are recommended as useful additives, and when grown on a balcony, loam, which retains water well.

Fuchsia pruning The more often a fuchsia is pruned, the thicker its foliage. The most suitable option for growing fuchsia is a regular pot or hanging basket. When planting together several multi-colored varieties at once, a real floral firework is obtained.

Fuchsia reproduction and home care

The favorite of many women is simply called fuchsia. This beauty comes from South America, belongs to the fireweed family and has about a hundred species. The most common is fuchsia with purple flowers.

It is named after the German botanist Fuchs.

According to amateur flower growers, a novice in home floriculture can also grow fuchsia at home, since it is not capricious. The main thing is to follow the basic recommendations for caring for her.

Fuchsia care at home

Lighting: fuchsia is a light-loving home flower. the best place for her will be the western and eastern windows. You can also try the north window, but there the plant will not bloom so abundantly and often. It is necessary to protect fuchsia from drafts. You should also avoid frequent changes of location, this leads to shedding of buds.

Double fuchsia flowers

Temperature: + 20 ° C will be optimal for summer, in winter the plant should be kept in a cooler room at 8-10 ° C. At high temperatures, fuchsia begins to hurt, drop buds and leaves.

Watering: from the end of March to the end of September, the flower requires abundant watering, the earthen ball should be constantly wet. From October, watering is reduced, and from the beginning of December it is almost stopped (for abundant flowering next year). In winter, at temperatures up to 10 degrees, fuchsia is rarely watered, and at temperatures above 10 degrees - a little more often.

Fertilizers: Fuchsia at home requires monthly top dressing from March to September. For her, complex fertilizer for home flowers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus is most suitable.

Humidity: the flower loves high humidity, so in the summer it should be sprayed in the morning and evening with settled water. In spring and autumn, this is done once every three days, in winter they are not sprayed at all.

Reproduction: fuchsia at home propagated by seeds and cuttings.

Fuchsia flowers at home appear on new shoots

Transplantation: done annually at the end of March. Before that, cut off the old shoots by a third and shorten the roots a little.

First of all, clearly define the place in the house where you put your beauty. It is very important. The fact is that she really does not like when she is rearranged and turned, this can cause the flowers to drop (by analogy with the Decembrist, for example). The place of detention should be adequately lit. She likes bright diffused light, but without direct sunlight. It should be noted that sunlight for the plant is not at all necessary, it develops well under artificial lighting. To do this, you can use conventional fluorescent lamps. With a lack of light, fuchsia stretches and does not bloom.

The temperature of the content in summer is the usual room temperature (18-20 degrees). But the summer heat, which has become commonplace in recent years, is dangerous for her. If possible, take out (take out) the fuchsia flower to fresh air in the summer. In winter, it definitely needs a lower temperature (8-10 degrees). And this is perhaps the only difficulty that a city dweller may face. But it is quite a solvable task. Many housewives successfully grow ballerinas in the kitchen, where they winter superbly. And this is not nonsense, read "Temperature for indoor plants" and "Plants in the heat", I hope these tips will help you.

Fuchsia should be watered regularly and abundantly in summer and moderately, but just as regularly - in winter. But! Regular and plentiful watering does not mean that the plant should be flooded! This flower should be watered only after the soil has dried. Indoor fuchsia is a plant that loves high humidity, so watering can (and should) be alternated with spraying and washing. Let me remind you that water for irrigation and spraying should be well settled and at room temperature.

Fertilization must be taken seriously. Without getting the proper amount of essential micronutrients, she is unlikely to bloom normally. But, as with everything, you need to know the measure when using fertilizers. By overfeeding a flower, you can get a lush green mass and a couple of stunted flowers. Therefore, it must be fertilized once every two weeks with a well-balanced fertilizer for flowering plants (fertilizer for pelargonium gives a good result), you can use Kemira, Peters and the like. Stop fertilizing in winter.

A complete fuchsia care is unthinkable without its regular pruning. Pruning will not only make your plant more beautiful, but also stronger, healthier. "Pruning" - in this case, not quite the right term, the shoots must be pinched. Pinching begins at the stage of a recently rooted cutting and continues throughout the life of the plant. It is best to do pinching in the spring, before flowering. To get a beautiful bush, pinch all side branches after about 3-4 pairs of leaves. To get an ampelous look (hanging), you can choose your own method. But even in this you need to know the measure, do not get too carried away, let the shoots grow.

Transplantation is carried out mainly as needed, when the roots in the pot become crowded (they climb out through the drainage holes). The rules for choosing a pot for transplanting for fuchsia are the same as for most plants. Good drainage is very important, which will not allow the earth to stagnate. You can buy ready-made land for transplanting fuchsia, or you can cook it yourself, which is preferable. To do this, you need to take one part of peat, compost soil, humus soil and mix with two parts of coarse sand. For good flowering, you can add a little bone or horn meal (tbsp. per liter of mixture).

Reproduction of fuchsia by cuttings can be done at any time, but it is better to combine it with pruning. Root or mixtures of wet sand and vermiculite. If the stalk is “adult” enough, then it is better to root it in water, and young, green - in the ground. The rooting period depends on many factors and can be completely different, from 3 days to one month or more. It is advisable to spray rooted cuttings from time to time. It also reproduces by seeds, in the same mixture of sand and vermiculite.

For more than 200 years, the beautiful fuchsia has been grown in culture.

It seems that this plant can please the most demanding grower: color, flower size. Moreover, fuchsia attracts not only flora lovers, but also culinary specialists, and even cosmetologists! From the fruits of this wonderful creation of nature, you can make delicious jams, candied fruits, liqueurs, pie fillings, and the Spaniards pickle green berries like capers. Recently, decorators and designers have become interested in such an amazing plant. After all, given the variety of colors, with the help of fuchsia, you can decorate the interior of an apartment, office, garden area.

There are more than 150 varieties of fuchsias in the collection of Elena MAKAROVA from St. Petersburg. Growing a plant for many years, she knows all the subtleties of its content. And although at the beginning of my acquaintance I encountered some difficulties, then I realized: if you know a few simple tricks, you can keep fuchsias even in a warm apartment. The collector is happy to share his secrets.

The article also contains the best tips and tricks from amateur growers and fuchsia growers.

"Dossier" on fuchsia

Fuchsia (Fuchsia) is a genus of perennial plants of the Cypriaceae family. Homeland - Central and South America, New Zealand. In nature, there are more than 100 species, most of which grow in Mexico, Peru, Chile.

A fabulously beautiful plant was discovered in the 17th century by the French monk and nature explorer Charles Plumier. The genus is named after the German physician and botanist Leonhard von Fuchs.

FUCHIA AT HOME

Fuchsias love a bright place on windowsills oriented to the east, west and even north. But what about those who have south-facing windows?

I bought a light planter 2-3 cm larger than the diameter of the pot in which the fuchsia is planted. At the bottom, expanded clay of the middle fraction was poured with a layer of 2-3 cm, a container with a plant was placed, and the gap between the walls was filled with sphagnum moss. Pros:

even on the south side, feeds do not overheat;
in case of overflow, the water will drain into the pots, but the roots will not rot, as there is a layer of expanded clay;
Moss absorbs excess water, creating additional moisture around the plant.

Elena MAKAROVA fuchsia collector. Saint Petersburg

Fuchsia does not favor direct sunlight - the leaves become dull and lethargic. In the summer I close my southern windows halfway with paper.

Svetlana Trubacheva, p. Langratovka, Luhansk region

The north side is suitable for fuchsia if trees and tall shrubs outside the window do not interfere with the access of light. From lack of lighting, the shoots will stretch and flowering will be poor. When growing indoors, good circulation of fresh air is essential.

Elena PETUSHKOVA, fuchsia collector.

Once upon a time there were seven sisters who danced gracefully. Once, during the dance, an evil magician saw them. He wanted to marry one of the girls and make the rest his concubines. The beauties rejected the magician, for which he turned them into flowers, similar to charming ballerinas in bright dresses.

FUCHIA IN OPEN GROUND

I love fuchsia not only for the beauty and duration of flowering, but also for unpretentiousness.

In nature, they grow at high humidity and moderate temperatures.

In apartments, the plant suffers from dry air and lack of lighting in winter, and from heat in summer. In order for the beauty to thank with lush growth and abundant flowering, you need to create comfortable conditions for her:

water in a timely manner, preventing the earthen coma from drying out;
spray periodically;
keep at a moderate temperature;
ensure proper wintering.

Summer in the garden

It is in the fresh air that the “fashionista” shows herself in all her glory! Fuchsia decorate windows, patios, on the porch I put them in boxes along the railing. Next to the table where the family gathers in the evenings, the plants are planted in decorative three-tiered vases, and hung in flowerpots on the branches of fruit trees, framing the arches along the paths and hanging in cascades over the pond, reflected in its mirror surface.

FUCHIA IN THE FLOWER BOARD

After the threat of spring frosts, she took out some of the fuchsias to the dacha. I planted some varieties in the ground in a shady corner, next to the hostas and astilbes, and transplanted others into larger containers and placed them there.

Further care was reduced to watering and weeding.

Sometimes the thermometer rose to +40 degrees, but the fuchsias only got prettier. Night coolness, humidity and fresh air did their job. I was especially pleased with the fuchsias planted in the ground.

Julia RUCHKINA

Soil for planting

Fuchsia is a long-flowering plant, so it needs a nutritious and at the same time light, airy substrate. An important criterion when choosing is a neutral reaction (pH 6-7).

Proportions? different!

I prepare the substrate for fuchsias from compost or manure with the addition of vermiculite or perlite, the amount of which depends on which component I take as a basis.

If rotted manure (at least 3 years old) - the proportion is approximately 1:5.

When I use ready-made compost from the tops of vegetable and ornamental plants, weeds, household waste (the output is quite light soil) - the ratio becomes 1:3.

Elena MAKAROVA

Magic Recipe

I have not seen in stores a soil suitable for the composition of the soil for good root development in fuchsias, so I have to “conjure” over the “magic recipe”. As a basis I take a peat substrate.

If I plant cuttings with roots, then this is usually Terracult TS10 or TS4. I dilute it with agroperlite and add 1 tbsp. humus soil or soil from the series "Delight", "Senior Tomato", "Queen of Flowers" - to choose from.

If I root freshly cut cuttings in the ground, then I replace the humus with a handful

Rooted young plants are transferred into larger glasses, usually from 100 g to 200-250 g. Then, into 0.5 l pots, I exclude coconut from the mixture, add more nutritious - humus soil. In this volume of soil, fuchsias live until the next season. By the spring transplant, the whole lump is tightly braided with roots, and I take pots with a volume of 1 liter and a diameter of 14-15 cm.

Proven over the years

I plant cuttings in light soil based on peat with the addition of agroperlite (3: 1). For transplanting overwintered plants, I make up a substrate of peat, humus, chernozem and agroperlite (1:1:1:1). To this mixture I add superphosphate - 1 tbsp. for 10 l.

Alla TISHKO, Minsk region

FUCHIA FERTILIZERS

I feed fuchsias from early March to mid-September. I alternate organic and mineral fertilizers. From organics I use infusion of horse manure (1:10) - once every 2-3 weeks, from mineral ones I prefer "Ideal" and "Kemira" - once every 4-5 days.

BTW, fuchsias are responsive to fertilizers. If you reduce their concentration - take a third of the recommended in the instructions, you can feed the plants with each watering.

It is important to keep the soil ball moist and not feed the plant if the soil is dry. In this case, you can only give foliar top dressing.

Elena MAKAROVA

spring dressing

In late January-early February, I transfer the plant into a larger container in fresh soil: garden soil, leaf humus, peat and sand (1: 2: 2: 1). I add 1 tbsp to a bucket of the mixture. complete fertilizer with trace elements. When I take the fuchsia outside, I stick a few long-acting fertilizer sticks into the soil.

Lyubov PONOMAREVA, Goryachiy Klyuch. Krasnodar region

Drank and ate

From the end of February, I combine watering with top dressing with such means as Master, Ferovit, Domotsvet. Once every 1-1.5 months I water with ammonium nitrate: a matchbox for Yul water.

Elena MAKAROVA

Interesting: Fuchsia has occupied an honorable place in Indian culture since ancient times. Houses were decorated with flowers, and wine was made from the fruits of the plant. When the possessions of the Indians were captured by the Spanish conquistadors, the natives had to survive by eating fuchsia berries, rich in vitamins and trace elements.

Spaniards called fuchsia berries "mountain peaches" because they taste like peach.

Fuchsias love to eat well. The frequency of fertilizing depends on the time of year and the growth phase of the plant. In the spring I use fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen for the growth of green mass. After one or two nitrogen fertilizing, I switch to complex fertilizers for flowering species. I am very satisfied with the products of the Schultz company - the manufacturer's line has compositions for each stage of plant development.

After transplantation, I start feeding no earlier than 3-4 weeks later.

FEEDING MODE:

in summer (until August) - 2 times a week;
in August - once a week with fertilizers with a predominance of phosphorus, potassium; in the fall and if the plants hibernate in the apartment and have not shed their leaves - once a month.

FUCHIA: WATERING AND CARE

In the summer I water fuchsias abundantly. In winter - depending on the conditions of detention, but in any case moderately. The main thing is to prevent the earthen coma from drying out. In an apartment where dry air is from heating, I water fuchsias no more than 2 times a week. Now I live in a house outside the city, and my beauties winter in a bright basement at a temperature of + 3-10 degrees. Under these conditions, I water about once every 3-4 weeks.

I put a layer of sphagnum moss in pots on the soil around the fuchsias. It keeps the water from evaporating too quickly, serves as a good mulch, and creates extra moisture.
Elena MAKAROVA

For planted in the ground

Fuchsias planted in the ground are mulched with pine bark, and in summer with additional mowed grass.

In the heat, mulch maintains a microclimate with high humidity. I leave a space around the stem of 3-5 cm free, this allows you to avoid the bay during prolonged rains. With this method of keeping, I water the plants once a week. I never water fuchsias with cold water, especially under the stem. In the evening, I irrigate the bushes with warm water from a spray bottle.

Irina GOVORUHA.

If there is not enough moisture, fuchsia sheds buds and leaves, but excessive moisture in the substrate is unacceptable, as it can lead to rotting of the roots and death of the plant.

All fuchsias like water treatments - spraying and bathing in the shower, but only if there are no buds on the plant.

Marina PROLYGINA

CUTTING FUCHIA

To get abundant flowering, special attention should be paid to pruning. Sometimes, in various sources, it is advised to shortly cut the bushes and cut off the leaves before sending fuchsias for wintering to a cold place in the fall. Until I had experience, I did it. As a result, the plants, if they survived, were weakened by spring.

You need to know that after removing the strong branches that fuchsia has grown in the summer, thin and weak ones begin to grow, the plant spends energy on their growth.

BASIC MOMENTS

In autumn, I remove only broken and dried branches, as well as all seed pods, flowers and buds.

In early-mid-January, I cut off fuchsia, but first I look for an emerging dormant growth bud in the axils of the leaves and cut off the entire branch at a distance of 1 cm from it. Cut shoots can be rooted, and by the beginning of spring they turn out to be well-developed and fast-flowering plants.

Until mid-March, I water fuchsias and spray them with a growth regulator (Epin-extra, Zircon) every 3-4 weeks.

After 2 months, I cut off the tops of the lateral shoots that have appeared, leaving 2-3 internodes.

Fuchsia varieties that quickly produce side shoots: Annabel, Ullswater. Bicentennial, you can pinch a third time according to the principle of the second stage.

In order for the bush to be beautiful and tidy, you should tie up “stubborn” branches sticking out in different directions, giving the crown a rounded shape. I wrap them loosely with green wire and pull them to the trunk.

Elena MAKAROVA

SECRETS OF SUCCESSFUL WINTERING OF FUCHIA

Wintering in an apartment…

In winter, fuchsia has a dormant period. Partial or complete loss of leaves at this time is normal, especially in a dry, warm room.

It is necessary to rearrange the plant in a cool place and increase the humidity of the air, for example, if it is in a pot, put it in a bowl of water.

I cut off the buds that appear at this time so that the fuchsias can rest.

The cool content of "ballerinas" in winter is the main condition for abundant flowering in summer. We need a temperature not higher than +18 degrees, or better - even lower, and additional lighting. This is not as difficult to do as it seems. If it is not possible to buy a special lamp for plants, a fluorescent lamp is sufficient.

To ensure coolness, you can isolate the window sill from heating appliances, for example, with a curtain.

The warmed loggia for fuchsias is an ideal place for wintering.

...AND IN THE BASEMENT

The cool (+3-10 degrees) basement was illuminated with ultraviolet lamps.

Lighting MODE: 12 hours - light, 12 - darkness. Tried to switch to mode 10 - light, 14 - dark, and the plants felt less comfortable.

Plants withstand a short-term drop in temperature to -3-4 degrees. At the same time, the leaves freeze, new ones do not grow quickly. My fuchsia Salmon Perfection once withstood -7 degrees for 3 days. True, the foliage froze and the buds fell off, but a month later the beauty was no different from her neighbors, only she began to bloom 2-2.5 weeks later than usual.

Irrespective of the wintering conditions, it is useful to spray the plants with a growth regulator (Epi, Zircon) 1-2 times a month.

Autumn chores

My fuchsias live outside until the very cold. If short-term frosts are transmitted, I put the pots into the house at night, I lightly warm the bushes growing in the open ground with spunbond. During the day, I remove the shelter, and again expose the plants in pots to the air.

A natural drop in temperature and a short daylight hours help fuchsias “think” about winter. Plants shed yellowing foliage.

I just have to remove it from the pots, cut off the thin, unripe shoots, shorten the branches slightly (by about a third). To prevent fungal diseases, I spray the bush and the surface of the soil in a pot with a fungicide.

I dig up plants from the open ground with a pitchfork, shake off the ground from the roots as much as possible, remove all the foliage and cut out thin green shoots with pruners. I wrap the root ball tightly in polyethylene or plant it in a suitable pot. The main thing is that during the winter the roots do not dry out.

You can cover the surface of the soil in a pot with sphagnum moss or cover the roots with it, and then put the fuchsia in a box and send it to the basement.

I leave young, non-lignified cuttings to spend the winter on a cool veranda with additional illumination with fluorescent lamps.

I put the bushes wintering in the apartment as close to the light as possible, in the coolest place of the window sill on a foam “pillow”, and in severe colds I fence off the glass with a layer of polystyrene foam.

Elena PETUSHKOVA

Good result

I have been storing fuchsias in this way for many years now and I am satisfied with the result. Plants with a clod of earth are tightly wrapped in newspapers and placed in one layer in boxes. I put it in the basement, where the temperature is not higher than +8 degrees. I check regularly to make sure the earthen ball remains moderately moist.

Ksenia STAROSTINA, Moscow

"Hungry" wintering

Starting in July, I exclude fuchsia top dressing. Until the end of summer and autumn, plants consume most of the nutrients from the substrate and by the end of autumn they practically stop growing, and all shoots become woody - ripen. In such a “hungry” state, fuchsias winter well in a cool, frost-free basement. I have been feeding them since February.

Valentina ZIMINA, Minsk

Storage without a pot

I send part of the fuchsias for wintering to the basement, completely removing the leaves. I carefully dig out with a clod of earth, put it tightly to each other in wooden boxes, after cutting the branches to semi-lignified areas. Such wintering is well tolerated even by spring cuttings. I cut off their green stems, which did not have time to lignify, so that in winter they would not be affected by rot and fungi. I cut some young bushes to ground level.

I cover the soil in the box with a rag and once every 1.5-2 months I check the condition of the earthen coma - it should remain moderately moist.

The temperature in the basement is + 3-7 degrees, which allows fuchsias to winter well. In March, when the buds peck, I take the plants out into the light and transplant them into a fresh substrate.

Work on mistakes

For a long time she kept her fuchsias in the winter in a warmed loggia, on a shelf near the east side of the window. But the plants did not have enough light: the shoots were stretched, the leaves turned pale, twisted, the bushes were affected by the whitefly and the tick, and at the end of winter, despite painstaking care, part of the collection died.

Over time, I found the best wintering option - a warmed terrace in a country house. The room is bright, with large south-east facing windows, partially heated only in severe frosts. It retains a natural difference in day and night temperatures: at night in the cold - + 5-7 degrees, in the daytime in sunny weather - up to + 25 degrees. Periodically irrigating plants with water, I maintain high humidity.

In warm weather in winter and early spring, I often ventilate the terrace, and as soon as the threat of night frost has passed, I leave the transoms open at night, accustoming fuchsia to coolness.

Ipina GOBOPUKHA

In a harsh climate

In winter, it is frosty in our region, therefore, to store fuchsias, I additionally insulate the glazed loggia with a transparent film. I put pots with cuttings rooted in autumn in boxes, I fill the gaps between them with sand or sawdust. I keep plants at a temperature of + 6-10 degrees. I water as needed, sometimes I moisten and sawdust. During the winter, young fuchsias become woody, gain strength, and strong, viable specimens grow by summer. Svetlana TARANOVA, Saratov

I leave on the site

Growing fuchsias in the summer in open ground, I leave some of them to winter on the site. It's risky, but it works in our climate. I cut the plants, leaving a low stump. I pour 20 cm of loose compost on it, and on top - spruce branches. I cover everything with plastic wrap (you can roofing).

After removing the shelter in the spring, fuchsia gives basal shoots, and blooms only by the end of summer.

Vera MARUVETS

Plexiglas screen

My fuchsias winter on the south window. Here they have enough light, and in order to achieve coolness, they fenced off the window sill from the battery with a Plexiglas screen. I monitor the temperature near the plants with a room thermometer.

Alla DADOEVA, Omsk

FUCHIA CROWN FORMATION

By the nature of the growth of fuchsia, there are ampel and bush. There are also plants that can be formed in one form or another.

Ampel fuchsia varieties

De Brommele, Natasha Cinton, Peachy, Bicentennial, Mantilla, Salmon Perfection, Miss Julitt, Ullswater.

Ampel fuchsias are best grown in hanging planters and baskets. Coconut on metal chains are convenient for the garden. In them, fuchsias not only grow well, but also look great. If the basket is small, it is better to plant one plant in it. In a large volume, you can put several different varieties and get a real flower carnival!

There are varieties that initially branch well, and there are "whims" that need repeated pinching for normal branching.

Bush varieties of fuchsias

Adalbert Bogner, Ballerina, Gilliant Althea, Irma Cecile, Roket Fire, Patatouille.

They can be formed on the trunk.

Both ampelous and bush

Annabel, Belle De Spa, Baby Pink, Butterfly, Deep Purple, Eurofuchsia 2007, The Rival.

Such varieties can be planted in one large tub: form a standard tree in the center, and several plants of the same variety around the circumference - in an ampelous form.

From different varieties

It is interesting to form standard trees from fuchsias of different varieties.

For example, I chose Annabel, Irma Cecile and Quasar.

At the beginning of summer, she planted three cuttings of approximately the same height in a pot with a diameter of 15 cm at a distance of 3-3.5 cm from each other. She tied them to small pegs and left them to grow until autumn, removing side shoots during the summer.

In October, before harvesting the plants in a cool, lighted basement, I took out the pegs, put one bamboo stick in the center and carefully began to weave fragile stems into a “pigtail”.

In winter, as the tree grew, I made a few more weaves.

ON A NOTE

It is better to weave before watering the plant. Having made 2-3 weaves, I tie the stems with soft wire to the central support and remove the leaves at the places of the plexus.

Popular "fuchsia-small things"

Thamar, Zulu King, Walz Jubelteen, Dollar Princess, Pussy Cat.

These fuchsias, even as adults, remain low and bloom in small, most often non-double flowers, in which the skirts are usually directed upwards.

They grow quickly and form well, therefore they are suitable for bonsai lovers - you can get the perfect shape in 4-5 years.

The formation of fuchsias on the trunk

According to the international classification, standard fuchsias are divided into: full stem - 762-1067 mm, half of the standard - 457-762 mm, a quarter - 254-454 mm and mini - 152-254 mm.

STAMP tree will look good if the crown size is about a third of the total height of the tree.

I choose a cutting that gives a good initial growth, and tie it to a strong support.

I pinch the top at the desired height and remove the leaves on the trunk.

Lateral branches begin to grow actively from the sinuses. I leave 3-4 upper shoots, I delete the rest.

When 3-4 internodes grow on the side shoots, I pinch all the tops again.

I give new shoots to rake out up to three pairs of leaves and pinch again.

Elena MAKAROVA

A beautiful standard tree can be grown in 2-3 years.

Photo by Tatiana Sanchuk

INTERESTING
Bolivian fuchsia is an evergreen shrub with spectacular large dark red flowers and wood of a noble shade. It blooms profusely from March-April, and is a highly decorative form, so it is perfect for growing # at home. This species was considered sacred by the Incas - they # used the berries for ritual purposes.

FUCHIA TRANSPLANT

Time to transplant

I start transplanting fuchsia when roots appear from the drainage hole in the pot - this is a signal for me.

It is important to choose the right container

The ideal option is a light ceramic pot 2-3 cm larger than the previous one. Plants standing in the sun in a dark flowerpot can die literally in a day from overheating of the root system.

A drainage hole is required, as fuchsias cannot stand even short-term stagnant water.

You can plant plants in dark plastic pots, but then put them in light plastic pots or wrap them in white paper.

Transplanting is not for all fuchsias

The best time for transshipment of adult fuchsia bushes is the end of February-beginning of March. In order for 3-4-year-old specimens to enjoy abundant flowering during the season, when transplanting into purchased soil for flowering plants, I add (2: 1) a mixture of sand, sifted and washed vermiculite and perlite, a pinch of dry mullein and fine charcoal.

The top layer of soil, in which salts from irrigation have accumulated and pests hibernate, is removed, slightly shaken off the soil from the root ball. If necessary, with a sharp secateurs, I cut off part of the strongly overgrown roots. I put drainage at the bottom of the pot and transfer the plant, filling the voids with fresh substrate. In some adult specimens, I replace only the top layer of soil.

At the same time, I expose the plants that wintered in the basement to the light. If necessary, I cut them a little, sometimes I transplant them into pots, but more often, until I land in the ground, I leave them in the same boxes in which they hibernated. These fuchsias, as a rule, skip the June flowering, not having time to build up a green mass, and show all their beauty in August-September. By autumn, the bushes that overwintered in the basement and the plants that overwintered in the light cannot be distinguished.

Irina GOVORUHA

BEAUTY FROM CUTTINGS

Tablet to help

Rooting fuchsia cuttings in peat tablets. From the film I build a greenhouse. When the roots appear, I add soil to the bottom and sides of the cup so that the tablet with the plant is at the top level. And I keep it under cover for a few more days. I noticed that with this method, the plants that have formed roots quickly and actively begin to grow, and when rooted in the ground, they “sit” for a long time without moving.

Oksana DYATLOVA, Mstislavl, Mogilev region

Result - 100%

Pour boiling water over a coco fiber tablet. After cooling, I pour the wet substrate into a transparent cup. I plant the stalk in a recess so that the lower leaves do not touch the ground. Lightly compact and do not water. I cover the top with a glass. I ventilate regularly. After the roots appear, I begin to accustom the plant to air. When the roots are braided with an earthen ball, I transplant it into a small pot in fresh nutrient soil. I increase the size of the pot gradually.

Tatyana Lushnikova. Volgograd

Shank on the moon

I cut cuttings on the growing moon. If the Moon is in Aquarius, Aries or Gemini, I refuse cuttings and pruning, I am waiting for more suitable signs for this: Pisces, Cancer, Taurus, Scorpio or Capricorn. But the best results are given by rooting on days when the Moon passes through the constellation Virgo.

Loss insurance

Autumn rooting makes it possible to duplicate the variety you like and insure against the death of plants in the winter.

In autumn, I cut green shoots up to 10 cm long from faded branches from bushes. I plant rooted cuttings in spring in hanging baskets or boxes.

Cuttings from flowering shoots or branches with buds take root reluctantly.

However, in the cold season, the rooting process is delayed by itself, about half of the cuttings fall out. There is a lack of light and heat. Without additional illumination, the root system is formed only by the end of winter-beginning of spring.

Irina GOVORUHA

4 WAYS TO ROOT FUCHIA

Fuchsias are propagated at any time of the year (in winter with additional illumination), but it is better - at the end of winter-beginning of spring.

Young green shoots take root most easily. For cuttings, you can take both apical - with 2 upper leaves, and stem - with 2-3 internodes. I cut them with a blade at an angle of 45 degrees, right above the knot. Or I break out young shoots with a "heel" at the base of a lignified stem - such cuttings take root and give roots best of all.

Rooting fuchsia in water

In the spring I use melt water, in the summer I use rain water. Sometimes I add Ideal fertilizer (a cap per 1 liter of water), occasionally - Heteroauxin, but fuchsias form roots well without growth stimulants.

I was convinced a hundred better and faster roots grow in brown glass vessels. For example, 100-gram bottles of hawthorn tincture are convenient. The cuttings stand straight in them, the water evaporates slowly.

I keep it in a warm bright place. Roots appear on the 5-7th day. When they grow 1-2 cm, I plant them in light, permeable soil.

Carefully!
Fuchsia roots are fragile and break easily.

in vermiculite

It is the ideal material for rooting any cuttings. I pour the vermiculite into a plastic cup and fill it with water until the substrate is moderately wet. A cutting planted in such an environment quickly forms roots.

The disadvantage of the method: when extracting the plant from vermiculite, fragile roots may break off. Therefore, this must be done carefully. I sew a lot of water into the vermiculite in order to “thinn” it as much as possible, and I pull out the cutting with the roots.

Rooting in a mixture of soil and vermiculite.

In the substrate

In this way I root rare varieties. I take the upper part of a green shoot with two leaves or a part of a leaf with an axillary bud. For the substrate, I finely cut sphagnum moss, mix with vermiculite (1: 1), add a little humus. The substrate turns out to be loose and low-nutrient, even the young tops remaining after pinching give good roots in it.

Capacity - a plastic container, for example, from under strawberries. Small holes for ventilation are already made in the tight-fitting lid and the bottom of such a package. I fall asleep the substrate with a layer of 2-3 cm, spill it and plant the cuttings (you can dip the cut into growth powder), deepening it to the leaves. I close the lid tightly and put the mini-greenhouse in a warm, bright place.

SO that the substrate does not dry out, I water through the holes in the lid or put the container in a bowl of water.

Cuttings take root in about 2-3 weeks.

In a floral sponge

I cut it into bars 1.5 × 1.5 × 1 cm. I pierce through the middle with an awl. I insert the handle into the hole so that the lower knot touches the sponge. I tear off the leaves at this internode or cut it in half.

I put bars with cuttings in the lower part of the container from under the cake, pour in melted or rain water, let it soak in and, if necessary, add a little. I close it with a transparent lid, put it in a warm, bright place and air it daily.

When, after 7-12 days, roots appear from the sponge, I plant the cuttings in the soil with it.

Elena MAKAROVA

As a result of selection, more than 10,000 varieties of fuchsia and a huge number of hybrids have been obtained. Moreover, their number is growing every year, and the collections of flower growers are replenished with new specimens.

We propagate by seeds: long, but exciting

When there are many varieties of fuchsias, when sowing seeds, you never know what the result may be. The appearance of the first buds is a bewitching performance of the green "artist", who can have a completely unusual color and shape of the skirt, different from the "parents".

FROM HARVESTED SEEDS

Ripe berries must be dried, otherwise the seeds may rot and lose their germination.

In a plastic container with holes in the lid and bottom, I put the substrate: chopped sphagnum moss, vermiculite (1: 1), a little humus. I wash the seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and let them dry. I evenly distribute them over the surface of the soil previously spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin, press it a little and cover it with a layer of soil of about 0.5 cm. The optimum temperature for germination is + 23-26 degrees. Seedlings protected from direct sunlight. Seedlings with two true leaves dive into small cups with nutritious soil. And after 1.5-2 weeks I start to feed regularly. Plants usually bloom 2-3 years after sowing.

Elena MAKAROVA

<ПОСЕВ В ФЕВРАЛЕ

The soil mixture of soddy soil, peat and sand (3: 2: 1) is compacted, moistened, sprayed from a spray bottle with a pink solution of potassium permanganate. I distribute the seeds over the surface of the substrate and slightly press it, do not sprinkle it on top. I cover with a film and put it on a warm, light windowsill, shading from direct sunlight. To remove condensate, I raise the shelter. I spray the soil with water at room temperature. I gradually accustom shoots to air. Sprouts with two pairs of true leaves dive into small pots. I water the plants along the edge of the flowerpot, periodically spraying. I feed 2 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer.

Valentina GALKO, Ufa

INTERESTING
In their homeland, fuchsias are pollinated by tiny birds - hummingbirds. In our gardens, insects do a good job of this task.

PROTECTION OF FUCHIA FROM PESTS AND DISEASES

Not according to instructions

While there are few whiteflies, it is easier to deal with it. "Aktar" for irrigation and spraying I breed at the rate of: 1 g per 1 liter of water. Before chemical treatment, I wash the fuchsias under a cool shower, some of the pests will be washed away by water, but then it is necessary to let the plants dry so as not to reduce the concentration of the drug when spraying.

Elena PETUSHKOVA

Proven in practice

From aphids, weevil, ticks, Actellik or Gaupsin are effective. Aktara, Konfidor successfully cope with the whitefly. I keep the infected plant separately.

Marina PROLYGINA, Dankov, Lipetsk region

Find and neutralize

Whitefly and spider mites settle mainly on the underside of the leaf. Unfortunately, the whitefly is found when entire colonies of the pest are formed. With a small lesion, I water the plant once under the root with Aktara, with a larger one, I process it again after 10-15 days.

The attack of the spider mite is obvious: the leaves are deformed, turn yellow and fall off, a cobweb may appear on their inner side and in the internodes. Severely affected leaves must be cut off, and the plant should be treated with Actellik or Fitoverm. To prevent the appearance of a pest, I often spray fuchsias and arrange “bath” days for them - once a month I pour rain from under the shower with water at room temperature.

BTW, if plants stand in a cool room in winter and “live” in the garden in summer, pest problems usually do not arise.

Fuchsia wintering in the basement with high humidity can affect a fungal disease. Therefore, it is important to protect the plants since the fall by treating them with Fitosporin or Maxim at half the recommended dose. For treatment, drugs are used according to the instructions.

Elena MAKAROVA

DREAM GARDEN WITH FUCHIA

With the help of fuchsias of different varieties alone, the garden can shine with all the colors of the rainbow from early spring to late autumn.

The variety of colors of this plant is truly amazing! From snow-white in Annabel, White Galore, White Chimes, Miss Djullit, through lilac-blue and blue overflows in Baby Pink, Blue Veil, Deep Purple, Gilliant Althea, Quasar, Blue Frills, Ullswater, with a transition to warm, red- pink-crimson tones at Belle de Spa, Delilah, De Brommele, Gipsy Queen, Irma Cecile. Kit Oxtobi Marinka Mantilla

Natasha Cinton, Roket Fire, and almost black at Adalbert Bogner, Rohees King.

Rohees New Millennium, Casper Hauser. Lovers of peach-orange hues will be happy to see Bicentennial, Berdas Coronation, Celebration, Peachy in the collection. In recent years, even yellow shades of the skirt have appeared - Martins Choice Improved. And that is not all! Flowers may have a shortened and elongated tube, sepals - bent and drooping. And what bizarre forms the skirt takes!

The fuchsia flower resembles a fragile, sophisticated fashionista girl, constantly changing her skirts - from narrow, tight-fitting mini to as if sewn from a magnificent wedding crinoline.

Autumn flowering fuchsia - the most spectacular. In cool, damp weather, the flowers last a long time. Shades of red, purple and blue colors on the skirts become bright, orange and pink strokes, white streaks, dark and light borders are clearly visible. Branches bend under the weight of bright cascades. It is impossible not to fall in love with fuchsia!

Fuchsia was popular until the beginning of the 20th century. And only a couple of decades ago it again won the hearts of flower growers.
The chemical compound fuchsin was named for the similarity of its aqueous solutions with the color of fuchsia flowers.
Maori fashion girls use the bluish pollen of one of the fuchsia species as face powder.
In their homeland, graceful beauties - "6alerinki" are classified as willow weeds.

WINTER EXPERIMENT

In regions with mild winters and stable snow cover, Dollar Princess, Royal Velvet, Corallina, Blue Eyes winter quite successfully in the garden. dollar princes

Success Secrets

It is better to plant two-, three-year-old plants with lignified branches in the ground and no later than June, otherwise the fuchsia will not have time to harden before the onset of autumn cold weather.

So that the roots do not get wet during the spring flood, a high place is chosen for planting.

For better development and nutrition of the roots, rotted manure and vermiculite can be added to the planting hole.

In the conditions of the northwest and the middle zone, leaving the plants to winter in the open field, there is a risk of not seeing green shoots in spring. Winter in these areas is unpredictable: severe frosts are replaced by a thaw that fell in September and soon melted snow can only come again in January.

My experiment

In the spring of 2005, I planted a two-year-old fuchsia Blue Eyes in the ground, then to leave it there to winter. I found a place for her on a discount, raised 30 cm above the level of the track and with good drainage. The root neck was deepened by 20 cm. In the summer, it formed a plant in the form of a bush. By autumn, it had five strong, lignified branches. When the night temperature became close to 0 degrees, I cut off all the shoots, leaving "stumps" of about 5 cm. Spudded with dry earth to a height of 10-20 cm. Covered with linden and oak foliage with a layer of 40-50 cm. I put a frame on top and pulled a plastic film to keep moisture out. The winter turned out to be quite warm and snowy: the average daily temperature did not fall below -20 degrees, and the snow cover reached 1.5 m in some places. Snow from the paths was added to the snowdrift over the fuchsia.

lucky exit

An early and warm spring has come. Having removed the shelter in mid-April, I saw green leaves on the fuchsia!

To prevent the plant from getting sunburn, it was shaded from the bright spring sun.

The beauty bloomed in early June, delighting with amazing colors and abundant flowering. In the summer, she regularly fed her, cut off the fruits so that the plant would not expend extra energy on their ripening.

Second try

Sent for the winter, as before. But frosts began in November, and there was practically no snow. In January-February, the night temperature reached -27-32 degrees. The snow cover did not exceed 30 cm. After such a winter, fuchsia did not recover.

"Home" for fuchsia

Years later, I again want to leave the fuchsia to winter in the ground. Only now I plan to put a wooden “house” 70 cm high above it and completely fill it with dry foliage. I will put a plastic film on top of the structure so that moisture does not penetrate. Maybe in this case, even without snow, it will be possible to save the plant?

Elena MAKAROVA

FUCHIA RECIPES

Fuchsia fruits, which have a tart and at the same time sweet taste, are valued by culinary gourmets. In the countries of the Mediterranean and South America, berries are used to prepare sweet sauces, jams, and make fillings for pies. Even the flowers of the plant have been used in cooking: they are edible, they decorate desserts and salads.

DELICIOUS JAM

Well-ripened, soft berries are covered with sugar in a ratio of 1: 1 by weight and left for a day. Then I cook it like any other jam. It is good to add a little lemon zest and vanilla sugar.

If the berries are not quite ripe, first I cook the syrup at the rate of: for 100 g of berries - 20 ml of water and 100 g of sugar, bring to a boil and pour the fruits. I insist for a day and cook as usual.

SPANISH RECIPE

In the Mediterranean countries, in particular in Spain, fuchsia fruits are pickled like capers. Spaniards share their recipes with great pleasure.

Washed berries are placed in a jar, a sprig of spices is added: rosemary, thyme, tarragon; grape leaves. For marinade: for 1 liter of water - 1 tbsp. coarse sugar and salt, preferably sea salt. The mixture is brought to a boil and green berries are poured. Allow the filling to cool, drain and bring to a boil again. Add spices: 2-3 pcs. cloves, 1-2 peas of allspice and 3-4 - black; 1 tbsp vinegar essence. Remove from heat, pour over the berries and tightly twist the jar. Such "capers" can be eaten in a week.

MY SUPPLEMENT

Marinating the berries, in addition to the listed herbs, added a little dill, parsley, celery, on a jar - a flower of tagetis and calendula, a green fruit of nasturtium. I put cherry and oak leaves under the lid.

I opened a delicacy for the New Year, and believe me - the yummy went with a bang!

HOME LIQUER

Elena MAKAROVA

FUCHIA JAM WITH LEMON JUICE

I cut 1 kg of ripe berries in half, add 800 g of sugar, sprinkle with the juice of 1 lemon and sprinkle with vanilla sugar. I leave for 10-12 hours. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Then I cook for 1-2 minutes, remove from heat, remove the foam and put it in jars.

Svetlana SHANTER, Moscow

When the fruits ripen on fuchsia, it becomes like a cherry tree. Black-purple berries taste like kiwi and grapes, only less sweet. They

look great on cakes, biscuits, pastries. I use berries instead of olives to decorate salads.

Alevtina MATSIKOVA.

PIE "FUKSIK"

I knead the dough from 2 tbsp. flour, 1 tbsp. sugar, 125 g butter, 2 eggs, 1 tsp. baking powder, roll out and spread in a buttered form, making sides.

I put the filling on top: I mix 2 tbsp. finely chopped fuchsia berries, 2 tbsp. sugar, 2 tsp potato or corn starch, 1/4 tsp. cinnamon, 1/4 tsp lemon peel. I bake 30-40 min. in the oven at 200 degrees.

Anna TSEDRICK

If the plant was treated with pesticides, eating fruits is dangerous to health.

The plant can bring harm to the body with individual intolerance.

FOLK SIGNS

Our ancestors, believing in omens, hid fuchsia from "evil" eyes if it was about to bloom. And paraded only on the most solemn occasions.

INTERESTING

Even today, among the ruins of the ancient city of Machu Picchu in Peru, you can see thickets of wild fuchsia trees, and in the town of Santa Veily, a rock with carved images of plant flowers has been preserved.

At home, fuchsia is not at all like our “growing plants” standing on window sills. There they are large trees, from which the bark hangs in long strips. The wood in young specimens is green and shiny, in adults it is dark brown with light waves. It is widely used for decorative crafts and inlays.

Elena MAKAROVA

Useful properties ... fuchsia ?!

No, not at all what we usually expect from medicinal plants. The main healing property of fuchsia is its beauty! When you look at the flowers, amazing in shape and palette, it is impossible to be depressed and discouraged.

I often watch people come to my garden, where fuchsias are everywhere, a smile and delight appear on their faces. And nothing is more conducive to health than a good mood!

Elena MAKAROVA

FENG SHUI? Bright fuchsia flowers help a person overcome fatigue more easily, recharge with energy, joy, optimism, good mood, desire to live and create faster. Therefore, the plant can be kept in any corner of the house.

Luxurious, spectacular, bright fuchsia, without a shadow of exaggeration, can be called a real "precious decoration" of any home and garden. For the first time people learned about this plant more than 300 years ago, and since that time several thousand varieties of fuchsias of various shapes and shades have been bred, which many amateur flower growers are happy to grow in their greenhouses and gardens.

Fuchsia in the garden and in the house

According to the biological description, fuchsia is a small, compact tree with flexible reddish shoots, medium-sized leaves that are lanceolate, green or red, and numerous flowers of various shades and types.

Fuchsia flowers consist of two parts: a bowl and a corolla of a tubular shape, under which there are bright long stamens. Often the corolla and calyx of the flower have different shades. And outwardly, these inflorescences are very reminiscent of miniature dancers in elegant fluffy or flowing skirts.

This plant has a very long flowering period. With proper care, it can last from early spring to almost winter. This made fuchsia very attractive to flower growers. Over the three centuries during which active selection of this flower was carried out, a huge number of plant varieties were bred. Among them there are fuchsias of various types, including erect and ampelous, larger and more compact, as well as very showy varieties with flowering shoots collected in racemose inflorescences, etc. Fuchsia is an excellent decoration for windows, winter gardens and loggias. In addition, during the summer period, it can be placed on open terraces and in the garden. How Dahlias are grown can be understood by reading this

Description of varieties and their features

In nature, there is a wide variety of types of fuchsias, the most famous of which are:

trifoliate. It is a medium-sized shrub with highly branched branches and small bright fiery red racemes-inflorescences. Blooms from May to September. It is afraid of frost, but is resistant to high temperatures;

Fuchsia trifoliate

shining or shiny. Grows up to 2 m. It has reddish shoots with large heart-shaped leaves. Flowers with a red calyx with yellow tips and a raspberry corolla;

Fuchsia shining

splendance. Gives large fruits with lemon flavor and tart aroma of spices;

fuchsia splendens

Bolivian. Differs in high growth. It has pleasant to the touch, velvety foliage and large inflorescences of white and red.

Fuchsia Bolivian

For cultivation in room conditions, varieties of the hybrid type are mainly used, which differ in the type of growth. These include:

bush fuchsias having even shoots growing in a vertical direction;
ampel type varieties, a distinctive feature of which are flexible stems of small thickness, freely falling down;
ampel-bush type, with a long stem that requires tying to a support;
quite often, fuchsias are grown in floor-type containers and other suitable containers.

The following are best for growing in containers:

Allison Bell. It has spectacular semi-double flowers of a purple-red hue.
Armbro Campbell. Valued for its beautiful terry-type double inflorescences with bright red narrow sepals and pale pink petals that open in winter.
Waist. A distinctive feature of the variety is a bright orange color.
Anabel. Presented in ampelous and bush form, it has white terry-type flowers, large in size. But how a flower such as Wisteria is planted can be understood from this

No less popular with flower growers are ampelous fuchsias, whose graceful, curly shoots are distinguished by their attractive appearance and decorative effect:

Prince of Peace- with simple flowers with white sepals, surrounded by a red skirt;

Prince of Peace

Hollis Beauty- with terry inflorescences of a white-pink hue;

Hollis Beauty

Blue Angel- blooming with beautiful lilac-purple flowers with a white frame, etc.

Reproduction methods

When growing fuchsia for your own home or garden, there are several basic ways to propagate it. These include:

cuttings;
Reproduction using seed material;
Breeding with leaves.

Fuchsia cuttings are most often carried out in February-March, less often in the second half of August-September (this is how slowly growing varieties propagate). For this purpose, cuttings are used, having a length ranging from 5 to 7 cm, which are rooted in sand or water. Three weeks after the appearance of the roots, they are transferred to pots with a soil substrate consisting of rotted humus, leafy, soddy soil and sand, taken in equal proportions.

To get beautiful, large plants with a lush crown, several seedlings should be placed in one container at the same time. Young shoots will begin to bloom in the year of planting.

It is very convenient to germinate fuchsia cuttings in peat tablets, which can be purchased at specialized stores. In this case, they are slightly moistened with water, and after soaking, the cuttings are placed in their central part, making a small depression there. Tablets with cuttings should be covered and placed in a warm place (greenhouse). Rooting of plants planted in this way will occur in about 7-10 days. Then the cutting, together with the tablet, can be planted in a suitable container with a prepared substrate for an adult plant.

To obtain fuchsia from seeds for their ripening, they resort to artificial pollination. Thus, by mixing different varieties, it is possible to obtain new hybrids with external features that are different from the original material. Seed material is obtained from fully ripe fruits of the plant, collected in dry, warm weather.
Harvested seeds must be well dried to prevent rotting and maintain germination.

Leaf propagation of fuchsias is carried out according to the following method:

The stems, together with several full-fledged leaves, are torn off from the mother plant and placed in the soil of a loose consistency, deepening no more than 1 cm.
They are covered with glass or plastic lids.
Every day, the cover is removed and the planted leaves are sprayed from the sprayer with boiled water, cooled to a warm state.
After the appearance of root shoots at the base of the stem, the plants are moved to small pots for further rooting.

Caring for fuchsia is quite simple, so almost anyone can grow this magnificent plant in their home. But in order for the “dancing flower” to delight you with its flowering for a long time, when growing it at home, it is important to pay attention to the following points.

Temperature selection

During the period of growth and active flowering in the spring and summer, the flower should be placed indoors (or outdoors) with a temperature regime of 18-25 degrees. The plant does not like heat very much, so if you keep it on a terrace or balcony, keep in mind that when the air temperature rises above these limits, fuchsia can “be capricious”, stop blooming and dropping leaves. So in the summer, during the daytime, it is better to cover it from the sun. In winter, fuchsia can be placed in rooms with a temperature in the range of 8-10 degrees.

Light

Fuchsias of all kinds prefer to "live" in conditions with good lighting. But too intense, blinding light is treated negatively. Therefore, they will be very grateful to you if you place them on the windowsill of the east or west window in your apartment or in the light partial shade in the garden. In the daytime, it must be protected from heat and sun, and this flower will perceive its morning and evening rays very well.
After the start of flowering, fuchsia is not moved to another place and is not rotated. This will cause her flowers to drop and her buds to open.

Watering rules

When growing fuchsia, proper watering is of great importance. In spring, summer and autumn (until October) it should be plentiful, in winter it should be moderate. Starting from mid-autumn, the frequency and amount of watering is reduced to a minimum. When negative temperatures occur, fuchsias are watered 1-2 times a month.

top dressing

For this purpose, balanced liquid fertilizers for flowering plants are used.. From the end of March until the onset of autumn, fuchsia is fertilized with a frequency of 1 time per week. In autumn, the number of dressings is reduced to once every three weeks, and in winter the flower is not fed.

It is necessary to transplant fuchsia as it grows, when the container in which it is located becomes small for it.. This will be evidenced by the appearance of roots from the drainage hole. For planting, a soil mixture is used, consisting of humus, peat, compost soil, taken in the same amount, with the addition of washed river sand of large fractions.

For better growth and development, fuchsia is regularly pinched. The first time - after rooting, and then - every spring, until flowering.

Winter care and pruning

Some inexperienced flower growers are afraid to grow a "dancing ballerina" at home, because they do not know how to properly care for fuchsia in winter. First of all, at this time you need to make the correct pruning of the plant. This procedure is performed twice a year:

In October, after the cessation of active growth and flowering, its faded shoots are cut to a height of about 2 cm from the dormant buds located in the axils of the flower. It also removes seed pods and wilted flower stalks.
In January. At this time, the final formation of the crown of the flower takes place.

To prepare fuchsia for a dormant period in winter, the amount of watering and fertilizing is gradually reduced, after which the pot with the plant is moved to a room with moderate humidity and a temperature of 8 to 10 degrees. For this purpose, it is convenient to use a glazed balcony, loggia or even a cellar.

To create more comfortable conditions, a flower pot can be placed in a box with sawdust or insulated with foam.

Keep in mind: if you decide to leave the fuchsia to "winter" on the window in a room with working central heating, do not expect good growth and spectacular flowering from it in spring and summer. In winter, she needs rest and coolness.

Video

You can learn about the intricacies of caring for fuchsia from this video.

Pest and disease control measures

Despite its unpretentiousness and endurance, the "dancing flower" has its own natural enemies and pests. These include:

rust, manifested in the appearance of round brown spots at the bottom of the leaf blades. Diseased leaves must be removed to prevent damage to healthy shoots. After that, the plant is sprayed with Topaz.

fuchsia rust

Chlorosis. Causes yellowing of the leaves. It occurs as a result of excessive waterlogging and a lack of magnesium and nitrogen."Treated" by the introduction of appropriate minerals and a decrease in the amount of watering.

fuchsia chlorosis

whitefly, sucking nutritious juices from the leaves of the flower, because of which they turn yellow and fall off. At the same time, the plants are washed with soap (if the leaves are still green) or treated with Actellik, Aktara, etc.

Whitefly defeat

spider mite. Appears in a dry and hot period. It manifests itself in the form of a weak yellowness that occurs on the surface of the leaves. At the same time, their reverse side is covered with a yellow-white coating with small black-and-white dots. To combat the problem, the drugs Fufanon, Fitoverm, Agravertin, etc. are used.

Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia)- a genus of perennials of the Cyprus family, numbering about 100 species. In nature, the fuchsia flower is found in South and Central America, as well as in New Zealand, and is an evergreen shrub. The fuchsia plant got its name in honor of one of the "fathers of botany" Leonhard von Fuchs. Indoor fuchsia, cultivated for over 200 years, is hybrid fuchsia and its many forms and varieties. She has long been loved by flower growers, who affectionately call her "Japanese lantern".

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Planting and caring for fuchsia (in brief)

Bloom: spring.
Lighting: in the morning - bright diffused light, in the afternoon - partial shade (east or west window sill).
Temperature: in summer - no higher than 20 ˚C, in winter - no higher than 15 ˚C.
Watering: during the growth period - regular, but moderate, after the top layer of soil in the pot dries out. In winter, water 1-2 times a month.
Air humidity: it is recommended in hot, dry times to spray the leaves with warm water or place the pot on a tray of wet pebbles.
Top dressing: since March, once every 10 days with fertilizers for flowering houseplants. In winter, feeding is stopped.
Pruning: twice a year: after the completion of the growing season (in early October) and in winter (in early January).
rest period: late autumn and winter.
Transfer: annually in the spring.
Reproduction: seeds and cuttings.
Pests: aphids, whiteflies, spider mites.
Diseases: rust, powdery mildew, root rot.

Home fuchsia - cultivation description

In nature, fuchsia looks like a shrub with flexible branches. Fuchsia leaves, green or slightly reddish, oval, opposite, slightly pointed and serrated at the edges. Fuchsia blooms profusely and for a long time with drooping flowers, consisting of a bright calyx and a tubular corolla with bent edges. The lobes of the calyx are longer than the petals, and the stamens are longer than the calyx. Fuchsia flowers - on long stalks, the color of the flowers is pink, white, red, orange, cream, lilac, purple - sometimes three different shades per flower. The fruit is an edible berry.

The plant is so plastic that it can be given any shape - ampelous, bushy, pyramidal, or grow a standard tree. In addition, different varieties of fuchsia bloom at different times with flowers of different colors, and you have the opportunity to create a collection of fuchsias that will bloom from early spring to late autumn. Fuchsias differ in the time of flowering, in the color of the flowers and in their appearance. For example:

flowers are simple (non-double), varieties: Brutus, Winston Churchill, Bon Accord;
semi-double flowers, varieties: Tennessee Walts, Snowcap, Satellite;
terry - Midge, Swingtime, Fashion;
racemes - Leverkusen, Swanley Yellow.

home fuchsia care

How to care for fuchsia at home

Caring for fuchsia at home is surprisingly easy. It should be remembered that fuchsia prefers cool rooms in which the temperature does not rise above 20 ºC. In summer. In winter, the temperature should not exceed 15 ºC. The best place that fuchsia could take at home is the east or north window sill. If the apartment is too stuffy in summer, it is better to take the plant to the balcony or courtyard and find a well-lit place where the sun's rays fall only in the morning. At noon and until evening, fuchsia prefers partial shade.

Watering should be regular and sufficient during the period of growth and flowering. You need to water after the top layer of the soil dries out, while making sure that there is no stagnation of moisture in the roots. Water for irrigation must be defended or filtered. In late autumn, watering is reduced, and in winter it is watered 1-2 times a month. It would be nice to grow fuchsia in a thick ceramic pot to avoid overheating of the roots in the summer heat. Spraying with water in the summer will very refresh your beauty, you can also achieve the desired air humidity by placing a pot of fuchsia on a tray with wet pebbles.

fuchsia fertilizer

Fuchsiagrowing in the open field, it is better to feed with biological fertilizers. Fuchsia at home responds well to fertilizing with ready-made complex fertilizers for flowering plants, which are applied once every two weeks during the growing season. In these fertilizers, as a rule, there is no nitrogen component or it is very small. In the winter months, a dormant period begins, and the plant will not need to be fed.

Fuchsia transplant

Fuchsia needs an annual transplant, which is carried out in the spring. As a substrate, a mixture of soddy, leafy soil, peat, sand and humus in equal parts is used. A drainage layer is required, for example, from expanded clay. It is best to transplant fuchsia using the transshipment method: a little soil mixture is poured into the pot on the drainage layer, then the plant is transferred there along with an earthen clod, then the voids are filled with soil mixture. The transplanted fuchsia is placed in a well-lit place, the stems are cut to one third of the length, sprayed and watered well. If you do everything right, fuchsia blooms will be plentiful.

Pruning house fuchsia

Experts suggest pruning indoor fuchsia twice a year: at the end of the growing season - in early October, and in winter - at the very beginning of January. The first pruning involves the removal of all faded branches at a height of 2 cm from sleeping buds located in the sinuses, which are easy to detect by carefully examining each branch. After pruning, you can begin to remove pests, seed pods that you do not need, and spent flower stalks. The second pruning is carried out in January and represents the final formation of the crown of the plant.

Reproduction of home fuchsia

Propagation of fuchsia seeds

Fuchsia grown from seeds rarely retains the characteristics of the original plant, so this method is interesting only for those flower growers who are fond of breeding experiments. The complexity of this method lies in the need to exclude self-pollination of fuchsia and pollination of the plant by insects. To do this, the anthers are removed from the still unblown flower, and the pollen of the paternal plant is applied to the stigma of the pistil. After that, a cover is put on the flower to isolate it from insects. You can make a cover from paper or fabric, securing it below the flower with threads. When the fruit is ripe, it is carefully cut, the seeds are removed and dried for a day or two.

Fuchsia seeds are sown on top of a moist substrate without closing, then the container is placed in a greenhouse and kept in good light and room temperature. Shoots will appear in a couple of weeks, after one and a half to two months the seedlings are seated more spaciously (dive), and after a couple of months the young plants are seated in separate pots. Seedlings should be accustomed to the environment gradually, opening the greenhouse for a while, otherwise unadapted seedlings may die after being placed in normal room conditions.

Reproduction of fuchsia cuttings

And yet, the most reliable way to propagate fuchsia is vegetative, namely, cuttings, since it can be used at any time of the year, but it is wiser to propagate fuchsia in the spring. It is best to take young cuttings, as lignified segments take root and take too long to grow. The length of the cutting should be on average 10-20 cm, the leaves in the lower part of the cutting are removed, the remaining ones are shortened by half.

Water for rooting is taken filtered, the stalk placed in water is covered with a plastic bag or a plastic bottle. The roots of the cutting may appear on the fourth day, and maybe on the tenth. Do not wait until long roots grow, plant the cutting in the substrate as soon as the first young roots appear. There are daredevils among flower growers who plant fuchsia cuttings in the ground immediately, bypassing the stage of rooting them in water. But it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions for cuttings in any case.

fuchsia in winter

Fuchsia in winter gradually moves to a dormant period, which is necessary for almost any plant. If she rests fully and restores her wasted strength, then you can hope for abundant and long flowering next year.

To prepare the plant for rest, it is necessary to gradually reduce the watering of fuchsia, stop fertilizing and, finally, move the flowerpot with the plant to a cooler room with an air temperature of 10-15ºC, where the fuchsia will overwinter. In an ordinary city apartment, a loggia or a balcony can be used as such a room, provided that they are closed with glazed frames and insulated.

Remember to prune the plant and exterminate pests before hibernation. If you are worried that the fuchsia will be cold, insulate the flowerpot with foam or put it in a box with sawdust. Fuchsia can winter in the cellar, and even in the garage, since it does not matter to her whether light will enter the room during this period or total darkness will come. But if your fuchsia has to spend the winter on the windowsill in a well-heated room, then you can hardly expect it to quickly gain the necessary shape in the spring and make you happy with an unprecedented flowering.

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