Evgenia Sbitneva - joinery and carpentry. Hand carpenter's tool Carpenter's tool

Carpentry work is mainly construction. They include the manufacture of individual structures from wood (for example, arches and frames) and their elements, the construction of houses. As you know, houses are built from wood, furniture is made and much more.

They connect building elements to each other with the help of bolts, carpentry and joinery. pins (wooden or metal rods), gluing or otherwise.

Joinery work differs from carpentry mainly in more precise fitting of parts, higher quality wood finishes and smaller sizes of manufactured products. These are window and door frames and doors (flooring is classified as carpentry), furniture and other items. Carpentry work is divided into whitewood (production of objects from soft woods - linden, spruce, etc.) and cabinetry (hardwoods are used - oak, beech, etc.).

What tools are used in carpentry and joinery? Obviously, before sawing, for example, a board, it is necessary to outline where to saw. For this, a marking tool is used: a ruler, a meter, a tape measure, a compass, a square, a thickness gauge (for drawing parallel lines), a bracket (for marking spikes and eyes), etc. Cutting tools are used in woodworking. In carpentry, the main tool is an ax. With one ax, without a single nail, the church in Kizhi, which causes admiration and respect for the art of folk craftsmen, was cut down. No less important carpentry tools are saws, in particular two-handed, transverse, beam (transverse, swinging - for longitudinal sawing, circle saws - for curved profiles). Scissors are also used.

Planing of surfaces is carried out by planers, different in size and purpose. Scherhebels are used for rough processing of flat surfaces, single and double planers are used for primary and fine planing, jointers are used for final processing of long parts, and sanders are used to remove especially thin chips. For planing curved surfaces, planers of a special shape are used; chisels are used to select nests, spikes, grooves, etc., and chisels are used when gouging holes in thin parts.

Drilling holes is carried out with gimlets, drills, rotators. The final finishing of joinery - cleaning and grinding - is carried out with cycles, sanding paper, files. Currently, hand-held cutting tools are being replaced by mechanical ones, usually electrically driven. Many designs and products are manufactured at woodworking enterprises and factories equipped with high-performance woodworking machines.

solid wood itself is obtained from a sawn and peeled tree from branches and bark. The value of a particular wood depends on the type of tree, on the structure of the structure of its trunk.
Solid wood is used in carpentry in the form of different lengths of boards, beams, discs, beams, and various shaped elements.

You should first consider the very structure of wood in Figure 1.

1. Main sections of the trunk.

Here the main technological
cuts are:
- transverse (in Fig. 1 this is plane B),
- radial (plane B),
- tangential (plane A is a cut tangential to annual rings).

The most visual representation of the structural texture of wood gives a tangential cut. In the central part of the tree trunk
core 1 is located (the core is usually the loosest tissue).

2. Annual rings.

Annual rings diverge from the core in concentric circles around the circumference, forming sapwood; each ring represents a growth per year, which allows you to determine the age of the trunk.

Rice. 1

A - tangential cut;
B - radial cut;
B - cross section

1 - core;
2 - core;
3 - sapwood;
4 - bark;
5 - core rays;
b - annual rays

3. Species of trees.

Wood species are divided into those with a core and those without a core. They are also called sound and non-core.

Non-core species have only core 1 and sapwood 3. In terms of quality, sapwood is significantly inferior to the core, and therefore, for example, oak wood itself varies in quality. The value is the core of the oak (for cabinetry), and the sapwood of this valuable breed is not used at all in carpentry.

Class carpentryit is unthinkable without the ability to distinguish tree species from one another and recognize them in a workpiece or in a product. For white wood works, coniferous species are usually used - pine, spruce and deciduous - birch, linden, poplar. Coniferous species are also used as a basis for gluing parts with plywood made from precious woods. In solid wood products, hardwoods are used for a transparent finish. When woodcarving is performed, which will then be painted dark, hardwoods are used - aspen, linden, birch, mountain ash, willow. With the natural color of the carved details, it is best to take a pear, maple, walnut, chestnut.

Brief description of the main tree species and their application

1. Hardwood.

Hardwoods are of the greatest importance in carpentry, of which oak should be given priority in our territory.

Oak(hard wood) - used in furniture production, in construction (milled wood parts, parquet), car building, shipbuilding, hydraulic engineering construction, oak wood is durable, strong, hard, resistant to decay, has a beautiful texture, bends well.Oak has clearly visible pores in a tangential cut, and core rays in a radial cut; very durable, easily stained to black. Real bog oak, which has lain in the water, has a color from brown-green to black. In combination with the radial cut, the texture of this oak plank is very beautiful.

Beech(hard rock) - used in furniture production (parquet, veneer, carpentry tools, containers), in shoe production (blocks), mechanical engineering. Acetic acid and creosote are obtained from beech by dry distillation of wood. Beech wood is strong, but prone to decay, good
processed, impregnated, bends well. It shrinks heavily when it dries.

Beech in its pure form is not expressive. In the radial section of the beech, shiny plates appear, visible from the end as dark dashes. Such a cut gives beech wood the most decorative qualities. But on the other hand, beech has almost no equal in strength.

Elm has a dark core and clearly visible annual layers. In a radial section, they form an interesting ripple. By the nature of processing, hardness and other properties, elm is close to oak. The texture of the wood is especially beautiful in the butt.

Hornbeam(hard rock) - used in turning, in mechanical engineering, in textile production. From the hornbeam, carpentry tool cases are made. Hornbeam wood is distinguished by its hardness, heaviness, is difficult to process, and is very resistant to abrasion. Like beech, hornbeam wood warps heavily when it dries out.

Ash(strong and viscous breed) - is widely used in the manufacture of sports equipment, in furniture production, in the aircraft industry, in car building, shipbuilding, and in housing construction.

Ash resembles oak wood, it is somewhat lighter, it does not have core rays. When stained and painted, it acquires an unpleasant gray hair, so it is usually used in natural color.

Carpentry and carpentry tools are made from ash. The wood is strong and viscous, has a beautiful texture, durable, resistant to decay. Ash wood bends well, warps a little, but is poorly impregnated with antiseptics. Elm, elm, elm (dense, strong breed) - these breeds are widely used in furniture and plywood production because of their beautiful texture. Having great strength, they are used in mechanical engineering and car building. The wood of elm, elm, elm, is distinguished by its strength, viscosity, density. Good resistance to wear, good bending.

Nut(hard rock) - sphere of use - furniture and plywood production, housing construction (internal wooden finishing). Walnut wood is heavy, strong and hard with a beautiful texture. The wood is well processed and perfectly polished. Linden (soft rock) - pencils, toys, musical instruments, and other products are made from it. Linden is also widely used in furniture and plywood production. Linden wood is soft, light and easy to process. When dried, the linden shrinks significantly, but warps and cracks to a small extent.

Walnut and Manchurian have wood of red-brown color, sometimes with dark veins, are planed with difficulty, lend themselves well to polishing and staining. Walnut burls have a particularly beautiful pattern; burls are cut into boards, assembled on a coniferous basis into shields. The hornbeam has a hard wood of white-yellow color, very heavy, suitable for imitation of ebony. It mainly goes to the soles of carpentry tools. Handled well, polished poorly. The pear wood has a beautiful pink color with gentle lines of annual layers. The wood is dense, heavy, well polished and painted. Suitable for small-profile carvings, drawing tools. Little warps and cracks when dried. Due to the developed central trunk, the pear gives long, straight billets.

Birch(moderately hard rock) - widely used in the manufacture of skis, butts of guns, parquet, wood-laminated plastics, chipboard and fiberboard, cellulose. Housing construction, furniture and plywood production are also areas of application for birch. Where there is high humidity, birch wood is not used. Birch is uniform in density, moderately hard, well processed. The birch material is often imitated for valuable species, it is well polished, painted, and well amenable to impregnation. But birch is unstable to decay, warps, which narrows the scope of its application.

Maple(hard rock) - scope - mechanical engineering, plywood, music and furniture production. In shoemaking, blocks are made from maple, and blocks for planes are made in carpentry. Maple wood is characterized by strength, density and hardness, has a spectacular glossy surface. Good for painting and polishing. The shrinkage factor is negligible.

Russian maple, sycamore, black maple has dense gray-pink wood with a delicate pattern. The radial cut is especially beautiful. Maple easily polishes and accepts stains; it can imitate most rare trees with even grain wood. American maple, or ash maple, resembles ash in wood texture, but with smaller pores and denser wood, it is processed and polished with difficulty.

Aspen(softwood) - this type of wood has found wide application in the match industry, construction, and in the viscose industry for the production of artificial silk. Aspen, like poplar, is successfully used for various crafts, for making toys. Roof tiles are also made from aspen. The wood is soft, slightly knotted, light, well processed, well impregnated and glued. Of particular note is the strength of aspen in the aquatic environment, resistance to wood-biters. Aspen warps little and is resistant to cracking.

Poplar- used as a good ornamental material (dishes, troughs, spoons, toys, etc.), used in the production of cellulose, in construction. Poplar wood is soft, dries out rather strongly, bends poorly, and is prone to decay. The material of this breed has mossy. Alder (softwood) - the scope of alder is quite extensive - this is joinery and furniture production, plywood production, lumber production. Alder has proven itself well in underwater construction, in particular, log cabins for wells are built from it. Alder is used in the manufacture of souvenirs, it is a good material for artistic processing (woodcarving). Considering that the alder does not give a smell, it is indispensable in container production.

Elm- southern wood with brown wood. Caps are often formed on the trunks of elm. Sawn boards from them are exceptionally beautiful. Plane tree, plane tree (eastern plane tree), growing in the south of the country, have a brown-brown core. The oblique direction of the wavy lines in the annual rings gives the texture of the plane trees, especially in the radial section, a grain-like appearance. Edible chestnut has a gray-brown core, the wood is similar to oak, but in a radial section it does not have shiny core rays. Horse chestnut is usually cross-layered, the wood is evenly colored, grayish in color (reminiscent of pine), convenient for carvings and mordants. Strength is high. Amur velvet (Amur cork tree) has wood similar to ash wood, but somewhat darker.

Rare hardwoods.

Rare hardwoods include pear, cherry, white locust, apple tree. In terms of density, the wood of these species exceeds oak and beech, has a beautiful color, is well processed and polished. Basically, the wood of these species is used in ornamental work.

White acaciahas a wide black-gray or green-brown heartwood, very strong wood with tangled fibers, which is difficult to work in a dry state. Wet - prone to brittleness. But the work is rewarded with a beautiful appearance of the product. Mulberry (Mulberry) has red-brown wood (sapwood is narrow); wood darkens when exposed to light. fruit tree wood cherries, cherries, plums, apples, apricots- an excellent ornamental material for a wide variety of products. As a rule, it is a very hard, small-layered wood of various shades - from white-pink to black-blue and purple in the core parts. With the exception of sweet cherry, pieces of wood of these species are not long due to the branching structure of the trees. Birch- the most widespread deciduous firm breed suitable for various coloring.

2. Conifers.

Pine(soft rock) - a good building material in various fields, it has found the widest application in furniture production up to various artistic crafts. Pine wood is quite strong, light, soft. When drying, it warps a little, it is well processed, impregnated and painted.

Spruce(soft rock) - main application - pulp and paper production and construction. A good material for the furniture industry, for the manufacture of musical instruments, It is used in the manufacture of tannins. Spruce, as a material, is inferior to pine. Although spruce wood is of a homogeneous structure with pine, it is more knotty, it is processed worse, and it is poorly impregnated with antiseptics. However, spruce, due to its low resin content, holds glue better and dries faster. Spruce has white wood with barely visible annual layers. She has black, randomly scattered knots, in contrast to pine, in which the knots are located in whorls (groups at the same level).

Has a very nice texture juniper- coniferous shrub with trunks up to 10 cm thick. The end cuts of juniper, suitable for inlay, are amazing in beauty. The pleasant smell of wood lasts for a very long time and joinery from it can be compared with similar products from camphor laurel, so loved in Europe in the last century.

Cypress, thujasimilar in properties to juniper, but their wood is grayer and more wide-layered. Cypress does not crack or warp, which is why it was previously used for icon boards. Cypress, thuja and juniper lend themselves well to fine carving. The remaining conifers are less suitable for fine carving.

Fir(soft rock) - used in the pulp and paper industry, construction, furniture industry, in the manufacture of musical instruments. Fir is also used in medicine for the manufacture of fir oil. Fir wood is close in its characteristics to spruce. Soft and light, it is difficult to impregnate with antiseptics. The scope of fir is narrowed due to its instability against decay.

Cedar, Siberian pine(softwood) - the scope is the same as that of pine (construction, furniture industry, carpentry, pencil making, etc.). In terms of physical and mechanical properties, it is between spruce and fir, but is more resistant to decay. Well handled.

Larch - beautiful beautiful creamy brown wood.

3. Imported wood.

Eucalyptus(hard rock) - finds application in bridge building, in hydraulic structures, in underwater technologies and, of course, in residential and industrial construction. Eucalyptus wood is strong, hard and heavy. Very resistant to decay. But it is difficult to process, the core of the tree is poorly impregnated with antiseptics. It grows in Georgia, Australia, Indonesia, the Philippines.

Mahogany (mahogany). The wood of this tree is used to make high-quality furniture, panels, various crafts and accessories. Mahogany carpentry tools are highly valued. The veneer from this tree is used to decorate prestigious products. The wood is hard, durable, does not crack or warp. Very beautiful texture. Mahogany belongs to the species with low density, it is well processed in industrial conditions, but it is difficult to hand-process. It grows in Mexico and Central America.

Cork tree (balsa)- in carpentry, it is used for the inner layers of glued laminated wood. A good heat and sound insulator, a filler for rescue equipment. Balsa wood is the lightest, fastest growing and softest of all tree species. It grows in Mexico, Central America and South America (Ecuador). There is balsa in Georgia (Colchis).

Carpentry works - the device of floors, ceilings, partitions, rafters, walls and rows associated with wood processing.

Carpentry - fabrication and installation of window frames and sashes, frames and door panels, clean partition walls, furniture manufacturing, artistic parquet floors and other cleaner woodworking.

When performing carpentry and joinery work, logs, beams, boards are connected in various directions with the help of mates - splicing, building up, rallying joints at an angle.

Pairings are made by notches and with the help of nails, dowels, bolts, clamps, staples, glue.

Splicing is used in the longitudinal connection of logs, beams, boards to increase their length, and building - to increase their height

The rallying of logs, boards and beams is done in the manufacture of large transverse dimensions of wooden structures (flooring, wall cladding, partitioning, etc.).

Angled joints of logs and beams are performed in the manufacture of window and door frames and canvases or bindings, cutting walls and partitions of wooden houses, etc.

When performing carpentry and joinery work, cutting, hewing, sawing, planing, drilling and chiselling of wood are carried out.

The felling and hewing of wood with an ax is carried out in two directions: first, the fibers are cut across (after 40 ... 50 cm), and then they are cut obliquely, deepening towards the middle of the timber. Sawing begins with two or three short movements of the saw along the line of sawing, and after receiving an incision, they begin to work at full swing without strong pressure on the saw. In order for the cut to be open and not pinch the saw, it is necessary to put a lining near the cut.

When sawing several boards at different angles, templates are used that give the direction to the saw - “miter box”.

Planing requires following the sequence: first, they plan a rough plan with a sherhebel, after which the surface is leveled with a single and double planer, and the final smooth sharpening is done with jointers. Jointers remove solid, continuous chips by moving the carpenter-joiner with a jointer along the workpiece. When trimming (gouging the ends), in order to avoid chipping off the edge of the workpiece, trimming must be carried out from the edge to the middle of the part, and then trim the bar from the other edge to the same middle. Hollowing of nests, eyes, etc. is done according to markings with notching the edges of the nest - the chisel is placed vertically with the blade across the fibers, chamfered to the nest, leaving a certain supply of wood on the sides of the nest and lightly hits with a hammer. The chisel is hammered 3 ... 8 mm deep, then it is taken out and the wood fibers are hemmed obliquely. Through nests are hollowed out on both sides, and markings are applied on both sides of the part. Through holes are first hammered to half the depth of the socket, and then the part is turned over and the hammering is continued on the other side. With cleaner work, the nests and eyes are cleaned with chisels after chiselling.

Drilling round holes is carried out for setting bolts, dowels, spikes according to marking, template, jig template. Templates are made from sheet metal up to 2.5 mm thick, plywood up to S mm thick or dry boards. The diameter of the hole must be 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the bolt, pin or stud.

Rules for connecting elements of wooden structures on dowels, bolts and nails:

The distance between the dowels and bolts, as well as them from the end edge of the elements, must be at least 5 diameters of oak dowels and 7 diameters for steel dowels or bolts,

The length of the nail must exceed the thickness of the nailed element by 2 ... Z times,

The distance between the nails must be at least 15...25 nail diameters,

The distance from the end nail to the end of the board or bar is at least 15 nail diameters, do not drive nails into the end of the wooden elements in order to avoid cracks,

Do not stitch boards with a thickness of less than 4 nail diameters to avoid the possibility of cracking,

Do not drive nails with a diameter of more than 6 mm into coniferous wood, and into hard wood (oak, beech) - more than 4 mm,

If it is necessary to use thicker nails, it is necessary to pre-drill sockets 0.9 of the nail diameter to a depth of 0.4 ... 0.5 of the nail length,

Hammering nails into wet and frozen wood is not recommended;

Nails should be hammered only with a hammer perpendicular to the surface of the elements to be joined,

Driving nails so that they do not pull out should be done obliquely in different directions at an angle of approximately 15

Temporary nailing, if it is supposed to be pulled out after a certain time, is done so that the hats protrude 5 ... 10 mm above the surface of the nailed element,

Nails bent during driving should be pulled out and replaced with new ones.

Glue bonding of wooden parts is carried out mainly in the manufacture of joinery using bone, skin, casein, resin and special adhesives. The surfaces of the parts to be glued are carefully adjusted to each other and stretched with a cynubel. The wood to be glued must be dry, the glue is applied in a thin layer only on one surface of the glued. The elements to be glued are clamped with clamps or wyms. When squeezed, excess glue is squeezed out and only the necessary amount of glue remains between the surfaces for strong bonding.

The adhesive solution from bone and skin glue is prepared for 1.h2 days of work, it can be stored at a temperature of 5 ... KGS for 5 ... 7 days without losing its properties.

Preservation of the basic qualities of casein solutions - 4 ... 5 hours, resin - 2 ... 4 hours, special adhesives - according to the instructions.

When building small wooden houses, wooden chairs and plinths are sometimes used as foundations.

Chairs are installed at all corners of the building, at the intersection of walls, under the main walls at a distance of 1.5 ... 3 m from each other so that their height from the ground is up to 75 cm. boards 25 mm thick.

It would seem that in the conditions of the existence of modern technological methods and synthetic materials, in the era of silicone and plastic, the profession of a carpenter should sink into oblivion. Not at all. Equipping their home, the owners increasingly began to purchase products made from natural raw materials. Natural materials are gaining popularity and recognition in interior decoration. For repair and finishing works, wood and products made from it are almost universally used.

Replacement of doors and windows

Doors and windows are used for finishing glazing, so it is recommended to assemble them before starting finishing and wall finishing. For a perfect finish, we recommend finishing your Glaphets with drywall systems such as gypsum boards and aluminum joints.

Formation of condensation on the inner surface of the thermopane window. Condensation may occur on the inner surface of the heat-insulating glass or frames. This also applies to the formation of dried water or condensation water. This phenomenon should not be confused with condensation in the interspace of the thermopane windows, which is a very rare case of a workmanship defect.

The carpenter is now a very honorable and significant construction profession. Specialists of this profile of MosMasterGroup company are professionally proficient in modern technologies for processing wood, manufacturing various parts, elements and building structures from it.

Our company offers qualified carpentry to create a unique interior design, because wood trim is a creation with an unsurpassed style, aroma, reverently keeping the natural warmth and comfort, creating a special, calm atmosphere of a native home. We will diligently and responsibly approach the implementation of carpentry work, help you achieve the ideal in the implementation of the design project for the interior of your home.

Domestic water vapor is constantly being released. Human breath: daily amount of 1-2 liters of cooking: up to 2 liters in a household with 4 household chores bring up to 3 liters in a household of 4 people. Condensation can be prevented by following certain rules.

Household users who have new thermal heaters should be aware of adapting to new ventilation conditions. In the case of a new, more airtight, uncontrolled air exchange is no longer reinforced, so residents must ensure that the premises are ventilated to avoid condensation. Rooms that are located in the northern part of the houses are colder in winter for longer. Take care that these rooms are better heated than in the south, or complement their thermal insulation. In addition, the temperature in your home does not differ from one room to another.

What is carpentry

Carpentry is the work of finishing the ceiling, floor, walls with wood and materials made from wood; floor covering installation, dismantling of old and installation of new windows, window sills, doors, boxes for heating radiators, equipment of wooden stairs, ceiling, etc.

In the morning it is recommended to ventilate the rooms for about 20 minutes, and after opening the windows, the heating is uniform even at moderate temperatures. Why does condensation appear on glass? How can we limit or remove condensation? Condensation occurs when the surface of the building is not well insulated and the water vapor that passes through the cool suddenly appeared the so-called dew point, which, when the third inner wall thickness is formed, cause condensation and thus: moisture, mold, etc. also, the use of washable wallpapers or acrylic paints are not solutions that significantly reduce the permeability of the walls, as spontaneous natural air exchanges are no longer produced.

For the perfect performance of their work, our masters use only high-quality tools of well-known manufacturers, various auxiliary mechanisms.

What carpentry work can we offer you?

The range of carpentry work we carry out is much wider than the standard set of services of an average construction company. Here is our list:

In the context of the above, the inner surface of the glass, namely the frames, may condense. this phenomenon should not be confused with water condensation in the space between the glass insulators. in this case, extremely rarely, it is erroneous performance, for which the company has serious guarantees for five years from. installation in a living space always produces water vapor for the following reasons: in the air that people breathe, cooked, bathed, washed and washed clothes; Flowers in the apartment, etc. add water continuously to the air as steam.

The maximum amount of water vapor is closely related to the ambient temperature. When the air is saturated and the temperature drops a few degrees, such as during the night, some of the existing steam on cold indoor surfaces. Other situations that may cause condensation.

• installation of wooden entrance doors and door frames of any complexity;
• installation of interior doors of various modifications (hinged, sliding, folding);
• insertion of door locks;
• installation of skirting boards;
• installation of a kitchen hood;
• suspended ceiling installation;
• equipment screen heating devices ;
• laying flooring of various types (laminate, parquet board, linoleum, carpet, carpet tiles);
• sheathing of the walls of the facade of the house, balconies, loggias with wooden and plastic lining;
• dismantling and installation of built-in furniture, mezzanines;
• dismantling and installation of partitions made of drywall, plywood, wood;
• installation of decorative fireplaces.

In addition, the services of our carpenters can be used for repairing door locks, fixing shelves and slatted ceilings, minor repairs to furniture, installing ventilation grilles, hanging mirrors and carpets.

If the indoor humidity is high and the temperature inside the insulated glass is low; If hot air is prevented by circulating heaters, go to the window; If not well ventilated rooms; If the windows are installed in the outer part of the wall; If the outline is not properly sealed. Reducing the risk of condensation can be achieved by.

Adequate ventilation, followed by uniform heating to moderate temperatures; Changing the circulation of hot air, so that warm air flows along the window to obtain large heat transfer coefficients; Where there are internal window sills surface coating of radiant heating elements to reveal a practical purpose, to allow the flow of hot air to the window; Rooms facing north or dominant wind direction to be better heated and insulated. Control sources of moisture content so that the air is not saturated in terms of moisture.

About wood as a material

Wood is a very attractive material, but specific and expensive, and its processing and use in finishing work requires special skills and knowledge of carpentry. It would be better to entrust the finishing carpentry work to professionals.

Tightness, in addition to the obvious advantages, but eliminate the possibility of sharing uncontrolled air width they are returned to users. The lack of ventilation in the room inevitably leads, under certain conditions of temperature and humidity, to condensation on the thermal insulation window, starting from the bottom of the bottle. With an increase in moisture condensation at the top of it and eventually, if not interferes with the transformation of condensate droplets. Condensation occurs on the glass sheet when the air is saturated with vapor from the inside, that is, when there is high air humidity in the chamber and the inside of the glass is cold.

Drywall along with wood

If earlier the tree was used in the form of an array or a beam, now the range of wood products has been replenished with a new, but already beloved product - drywall. This building material is successfully used in the installation of suspended multi-level ceilings, all kinds of curvilinear architectural decorative structures, shelves, arches, columns. Most designers are very fond of working with drywall, as it provides an opportunity to embody many creative ideas regarding both the functionality of interior items and simply decorating it with original decorative elements.

Often, when it comes to heating installations, there is a problem with the placement of the radiator and the pipes that bring heat to the radiator. Some argue that they should always be mounted on glass walls, while others argue that they should be mounted on the wall opposite the window. The explanation or argument that the radiator should be placed under the window is that because of the cold glass which will cause condensation on the glass and over time we will destroy the windows, we will grow mushrooms on the joinery and on the insulating rubber.

Installing a radiator under a window creates a warm air curtain to dry the glass and prevent condensation. There are many different people who claim that by placing a radiator on a window, you create a large potential difference between the outside and the inside, which leads to high energy losses. This is very true, but it is not an argument.

Not without carpentry and repair of balconies. Installation of frames, wall paneling, floor and ceiling equipment will transform the look of your balcony, turn it into a full-fledged comfort and relaxation zone.

Material Advantages

For a more durable carpentry service, we will make sure that wood finishing is carried out in accordance with all the rules, we will take into account all the parameters and conditions of the design project. The tree in the interior is able to show truly miracles of adaptation. A more favorable material with its environmental friendliness and useful properties for home decoration is hard to imagine.

And this means that the inert gas between the glass sheets is released indoors or outside, and the window begins to float even inside, but also inside the inside of the document. These things still happen with thermal windows, and when it does, it's advisable to refill the cavity between the Argon spaces. And the relationship between placing a radiator under a window and lowering the window's thermal insulation is that the heat or heat it generates can stop condensation on the front of the house.

It can be seen that when using thermopane windows, we can have condensation when there is no hot air curtain emitted by the radiator. in this case, even a large distance between the warm air curtain and the pane of glass could be another possible cause.

Wood is by far the most common building material available for any small home structure, from the foundation to the roof. Therefore, carpentry and joinery work in low-rise housing construction occupy a leading position. The main disadvantage of wooden structures is their fragility, flammability and rather high cost, so the use of wood, especially for walls, should be limited in every possible way, replacing it, where possible, with cheaper and more durable materials.

Another problem that a window can have when placing a radiator under a window is the radiator mask or the radiator being too far away from the window or, if rare, if the wall is very thick or oddly shaped, the warm air curtain radiator is too far from the window surface. and there is condensation on the way.

In this way, visitors will learn what a quality window means, what are its components and what steps should be taken to obtain it. The site is structured into two main sections: "Creating a Window" and "Installing a Window". The first part presents the main operations carried out in the factory, their correct implementation depending on the good use and aesthetics of the carpentry.

Wood is used in the production of both carpentry and joinery, and in construction it is difficult to draw a clear line between them. The tool for both types of work is for the most part common to both the joiner and the carpenter. Therefore, the description of carpentry and joinery tools and devices that facilitate work is given in one section.

The "How to Install a Window Properly" window provides some examples of installation and shows the technical aspects necessary for the correct operation of the window. Prepare the Gap All sides of the inner void should be flat and straight at right angles; any breaks in the wall by removing old joinery should be repaired. Installing a window on a repaired wall is safer and faster. Window installation can be done at any time of the year. However, in cold weather, special materials suitable for low temperatures will be used to repair the wall.

Before starting carpentry and joinery work, it is necessary to arrange a workbench for planing and assembling individual parts, devices for processing logs, tool points. Practice has shown that it is more profitable to spend an extra day preparing the workplace than to adjust and reorganize in the process of work.

Before starting work, the installer must make sure that the profiles are provided with drainage and ventilation holes and that they are not covered, and if the window is provided with a bottom wall, make sure that it exists. Positioning the frame inside the hole is done with the help of dowel pins and of course with the help of a level. Their use guarantees flat mounting.

Measurements are made, the wall is drilled according to the set distances, and then the fixed frame is installed with brackets or screws on the wall. Subsequently, the feathers are removed from three sides. It is recommended not to remove the feathers from the bottom of the frame.

The carpenter's workbench is a plank flooring of 40-50 mm boards. The usual width of the workbench is about 1 m, the length is b m. The flooring is laid on goats about 80 cm high.

A very convenient carpentry and joinery workbench, made as shown in the figure.

The edge board of the workbench is taken with a thickness of at least 5 and a width of 25 cm. Two stops (lindens) are nailed onto it; one on the top of the board for planing boards flat, and the other on the edge for sharpening boards from the edge. The top stop should be made of sufficiently hard wood - oak or birch, at least 2 cm thick.

And in the case of a sash, it is necessary to check the presence of drainage and ventilation holes and, if they are not closed. Sealing of frame-wall connection. The sealing of the joint between the frame and the wall, in the case of using pre-compressed strips or special sealing sheets, is carried out before fixing the frames in the window gap. On the outer side of the fixed frame, its thickness or area of ​​contact with the wall, pre-pressed sealing tape or special mounting foil for outdoor use, a perimeter is applied.

An emphasis with a drilled hole in the top of the cutout clamps better and clogs less. Its front edge is sawn off somewhat obliquely. When using the side stop, especially during significant work on gouging the edges of the boards, various devices are arranged: a clip-bracket, “fingers” for supporting the board, nailed to the bottom plane of the workbench, etc. Side cutouts with a width of 5 to 15 cm are used to strengthen with wedges boards and bars when sawing, an inclined cut - for sawing long bars that are inconvenient to process in a vertical position. The length of the workbench must match the size of the material to be processed. The height is made such that the worker can put his palms on the board of the workbench without bending his arms at the elbows. A long workbench for stability is mounted on three goats.

When using mounting foil, they should be folded over the corner of the window so that they can be easily applied to the wall. The foam is injected and after a short time any excess foam is cleaned off and the inner sealant film is bonded to the wall surface. This will provide a very good seal around the perimeter of the window inside. Subsequently, these films can be plastered, painted, etc. We draw your attention to the fact that the exclusive use of mounting foam is not enough. Cause. It's not very durable unless it's protected.

It is recommended to simultaneously contact the specialists of the window and construction companies, who will finish the holes after installation. In practice, there are various installation situations, and to ensure the tightness of the structure, it is necessary to correctly evaluate them.

For chopping and teski with an ax, it is desirable to have a block of wood with a diameter of 30 and a height of 45 cm. Do not chop on a workbench or on the ground. For logs, a stop is arranged to prevent the movement of the log from the blows of an ax, and a clamp that prevents the log from spinning when breaking off chips. A convenient stop is obtained from a piece of log buried in the ground to a depth of 60-70 cm, in front of which you need to put a lining with a cutout so that the log does not roll. To prevent the log from rotating, it can be secured with staples or wedges in the cutout of the front lining. When reinforcing with wedges, the log is hewn from the end into two edges, and the cutout in the lining is made at least two-thirds of the thickness of the log.

Seal it with silicone along its entire length in the area of ​​contact with the window frame. The internal glaze can be made from various materials: wood, plastic, composite materials, marble. The outer strips are installed by clipping under the frame and on the salt bank, and then fixed to it with self-tapping screws. Caps will be fitted at the ends. The silicone seals the contact surface between the carpenter and the head when a salt bank profile is not used. Avoid drainage holes outside.

It is recommended to use solbank. Insulating glass is mounted in the sash or frame for fixed windows. The assembly consists in the work of winding glass using a track and path of varying thickness. The glass assembly process ends with the perimeter fixing of the strips on the sash or on the frame, with sticks corresponding to the thickness of the insulating glass, and which are cut to size at the factory. The baton is installed as follows: first insert the ends into the predefined groove, and then secure the rest of the stick by lightly tapping with a rubber mallet.

Before talking about the arrangement of carpentry and joinery tools, it is necessary to talk about the general rulesthat must be followed when buying, setting up and storing it.

The novice master believes that a universal tool is preferable. But it's not. A specialized “(separate) tool is much more convenient than a universal one, since the work of the latter requires great physical effort and gives worse results. For example, it is better to have an axe, a nail puller and a hammer than a utility hatchet with an uncomfortable nail puller handle, a small blade and a hammer-like butt. Cutting boards lengthwise with a saw designed for mixed sawing is twice as difficult as with a special rip saw.

The tool must be fitted according to the hand and height of the worker (for example, an ax handle). For example, the diameter of the handle of any hand tool must be at least 25 mm. It is better to make the handles round, as this creates ease of use in any position of the tool. A good handle allows you to transfer maximum effort to the tool.

A large tool is preferred so that it can do any job, except for very small ones, for which an appropriate tool is needed. An average tool does not make it possible to process a large object well, and for very small work it is just as unsuitable as a large one.

You need to purchase a good quality tool, despite its higher price.

For example, a planer with a double welded iron and a hornbeam sole costs twice as much as a beech planer with an all-steel iron that needs to be adjusted. The cost of labor and time at the second point is spent twice as much. A good bow saw costs twice as much as a saw assembled from individual elements (machine, blade), but the work of the latter is much worse: it requires more frequent sharpening and additional wiring. The same can be said about the brace, drill, vise. Good craftsmen believe that saving on a tool does not bring any benefit.

Carpenter's workbench, stops, clamps: 1 - general view of the workbench; 2 - horizontal stop device; 3 - clamping the board in the cutout with wedges for sawing types; 4 - fixing the board with the help of a clamp and wedges when sharpening the rib

The tool must always be sharply sharpened and aimed at the touchstone. This is the basis of quality work. Therefore, files, bars, whetstones are an integral part of the carpentry tool kit. They must be embedded in wooden blocks so that they can be strengthened at the point. Three types of stones are needed: coarse for primary roughing (dry), medium for point (wet), and whetstone for straightening (wet). It is impossible to sharpen joinery and carpentry tools on rapidly rotating electric sharpeners - the steel is released.

Carpenter's ax: 1 - general view of the ax: 2 - reliable fastening of the ax on the handle; 3 - the position of the butt hole and the blade: a - correct; b - incorrect; 4 - drank slots for the wedge; 5 - wedge shape: c - correct; b - incorrect; 6 - forms of chamfers of the ax blade: a and b - incorrect; c - correct

Tools with open blades must not be stored in bulk together with hammers, screwdrivers, pliers. Bow saws must be loosened after work, the planer irons must be removed into the blocks.

The main carpentry tool is an axe. Since it is inexpensive, it is recommended to have two axes for work: one, heavy, for two-handed work - tesks of logs, and the other, lighter, for small work - a carpenter's ax. Axes are forged and cast. Cast, as a rule, are made heavier and thicker. Forged ones have a thinner blade, a wider butt and less weight. When buying, you must check whether the direction of the hole for the ax is the same as the blade, otherwise the correct attachment of the ax will be difficult. Cast axes are more accurate in this respect. It is also necessary to check the uniformity of the blade thickness in order to have an even bevel.

The hatchet is best made from birch, placing the annual layers of wood in the direction of the blade. Such an arrangement of layers is also necessary for ax handles made from coniferous species. Ax handles made of beech or oak are tough, as they say, "drain the hands." The ax handle must have a slight extension at the end: this allows you to squeeze it with less force, which makes it easier to work.

In order for the wedge to pass smoothly into the ax handle and not warp the ax, the gap for it must be sawn through. The wedge should have parallel edges and a slight taper at the end. Such wedges are not squeezed back. When driving a wedge into an ax handle without cutting, it often turns out to be skewed, and it is inconvenient to work with such an ax. The best spells are made of 3-mm steel. You can also jam with a piece of strong dry plantar leather, driven into the cut instead of a wooden wedge, or with a strip of 4-5 mm steel from the back of the head, the top of which is bent over the butt, and the lower part is screwed to the ax handle with screws. This reinforcement reliably protects the ax from jumping off.

It is necessary to sharpen the ax with emery circles of small diameter to get a slightly concave chamfer. A straight bevel after undercutting very soon becomes convex, and the ax, even being sharp enough, begins to bounce, especially from a dry tree. The most important part of the ax is its corners: with them, good craftsmen gouge out and clean nests, grooves, spikes and quarters when arranging boxes and rallying logs and beams, so the corners must always be sharp.

Saws: 1 - transverse two-handed; 2 - bow; 3 - hacksaw; 4 - trigger; 5 - backing carpentry; 6 - alignment of saw teeth with a file before sharpening; 7 - section of the "planed" saw blade; in - plywood file; 9 - saw tooth shapes: a - for transverse cutting; b - for longitudinal; c, d - for mixed

The second most important carpentry tool is the saw. The most convenient for work is a large hacksaw with isosceles large teeth, which equally easily saws both boards and logs. its length should be about 60 cm. Shorter hacksaws are more likely to tire the worker.

Saws are for longitudinal, transverse and mixed sawing; they differ in the shape of the teeth. By design, saws are divided.

The most common two-handed saw (for cross-cutting logs and firewood) should have the following qualities. The surfaces of her blade should be completely flat and even, without bulges and deflections. Bulges rub against the walls of the cut and make work difficult.

To reduce the friction of these bumps, you have to make a wider set, which increases the difficulty of working with a saw. Divorce should not exceed two thicknesses of the canvas. The handles of such a saw are best made slightly curved, with the upper end facing the center of the saw. With such handles, the hands get tired less and the scope increases when sawing.

In addition to the carpenter's large hacksaw, other single-handed saws with a rigid blade for special purposes are used. Narrow hacksaws - triggers - are used for sawing curved cuts; the thickness of the trigger is 1-1.5 mm, the tooth is inclined. Edge saws are used for sawing spikes and precise cutting of boards. The riveted butt gives the canvas additional rigidity. These files usually have a rectangular tooth no more than 3 mm high. Awards and plywood files are made from fragments of old canvases. The first one is used for cutting grooves in the shields when installing rack dowels in them, the second ones are used for cutting large sheets - plywood along the ruler. They saw the award on themselves.

In addition to various types of hacksaws, in carpentry and carpentry, bow saws are used, the blade of which is stretched in the machine with the help of twine and twist. By the nature of the work, bow saws are also divided into transverse saws with an isosceles tooth 5-6 mm high, opening saws designed for sawing boards along (these saws have a wide blade with a large oblique tooth, blade length up to 850 mm), fine teeth - short saws with machine length 600 mm with a thin blade and a rectangular tooth. For shaped sawing, cut-out saws with a blade width of up to 12 mm and also a rectangular tooth are used. The quality of the bow cloth is checked by bending it into a ring in a vise, where it should take the shape of a regular circle.

The canvas suspended by the eye should not have a curvature or skew. Good quality canvas makes a clear sound when struck with a fingernail. The steel of the canvases is checked for elasticity: a canvas bent by 120 ° should not have distortions that are noticeable to the eye.
Under the file, the steel of the teeth should be fed with noticeable resistance; if the file slides over the steel, then the blade is cemented, made of poor steel. Such canvases are difficult to sharpen, they quickly become dull and the teeth crumble out of them.
Handles for hacksaws are made of dense wood (beech, hornbeam) or thick plywood and are attached to the canvas inserted into the exact cut with countersunk bolts. Rivets are less convenient, as they loosen over time and tear the wood of the handle. The lower end of the hacksaw handle should be 2-4 cm above the teeth line.

So that the figured part of the handle, cut from solid wood, does not accidentally break off, it is recommended to insert a key into it before cutting it out of the board, perpendicular to the wood fibers.

When setting up a bow saw machine, it is better to make a spacer with through holes into which racks are passed, and not with forked ends, as is usually the case in machines that go on sale. The slotting of the holes must be accurate, and their direction must be strictly parallel to the saw blade, otherwise the racks will be skewed. It is recommended to wrap the spacer at the points of junction with the uprights tightly with thin twine or upholstered with tin (to prevent splitting). The wrapped area should be varnished. A bowstring is also wrapped around, which is made from twisted fishing line with 16-20 threads. Saws for longitudinal sawing are not bred.

Good craftsmen produce the so-called "cutting" of the saw blade. This is done in this way: after laying a new canvas on a smooth board, they clean off its planes closer to the butt with a large sandpaper or corundum stone, after which they cut it with a sharply honed planer. As a result of this operation, repeated several times on both sides, thinning of the web to the butt is obtained. Such a saw (hacksaw or bow saw) is never clamped in the cut and makes it very accurate.
Depending on the type of saw, the teeth are bred and sharpened in different ways. Saws intended only for longitudinal sawing are usually not divorced, and the tooth has a straight sharpening - the file moves at a right angle to the blade. Crosscut saws have an oblique sharpening, or, as they say, a sharpening - the file moves at an angle of 70 ′ to the blade when sharpening them. In fine-toothed saws, the inclination of the file at the point should be in the range of 80-85 °.
Before the point, the teeth of the saw must be aligned with a file embedded in a bar, since with uneven teeth the saw is taken to the side and the cut is torn.

For the point of saws, it is recommended to use two files: first personal, then velvet, which plays the role of a touchstone. The wiring of the saws is done after straightening the teeth before the point and is done with a special wiring or a wide screwdriver. You can do the wiring yourself by cutting a cut in a steel plate to the depth of a tooth with a hacksaw. For strength, the wiring is quenched in oil.

Divorce saws checked by eye. Excessively set teeth are hammered back. If a tooth breaks during setting, then the order of setting should not be violated and the next tooth should be set in the same way as the broken one was set. Some masters in the middle of the canvas recommend making the divorce wider; never clamps such a saw.

The width of the divorce is made no more than half the thickness of the canvas on each side. Usually its width is equal to 1.5 of the thickness of the canvas. If, when sharpening saws intended for longitudinal sawing, sharpen on both sides through the tooth, then burrs are formed, which play the role of a small divorce.

Longitudinal sawing of logs is sometimes done with fly saws. After a short training, two men are able to cut boards for a house of 50 m2 in three days. For the point of fly saws, you must have two files: a round file with a diameter of 8 mm and a flat or triangular file with a width of 20 mm. Fly saws are not bred. Sawing logs is carried out on goats or in a saw pit. They start it from the thick end of the log along the lines broken off with a chalked cord. The cut is not brought to the end by 15-20 mm. To prevent the log from pinching, a wedge is inserted into the cut.

Carpenter's and joiner's hammers have square flat heads. A machinist's hammer with a round head is inconvenient due to the small size of the head and the convex head, which leaves dents in the wooden surface. The back of the carpenter's hammer has the shape of a flat wide spatula, designed for rubbing plywood when pasting shields with it.
A carpenter's hammer to prevent splitting by nail heads in case of a miss should have a metal-wrapped handle. Reliably fastens the hammer, with simultaneous protection of the handle, a metal strip, bent on the hammer from above. Do not wedge hammer handles with nails. The best material for the handles of any hammers is dry acacia wood. Wooden mallets (mallets) are made from a very strong butt-grained part of a birch. They can be round (carpentry) and rectangular (carpentry).

When chiselling thick wooden parts (logs, beams), a carpenter's chisel is used, which can withstand high impacts. This chisel has a glass-shaped handle, into which a wooden part is inserted, bound with a metal ring.

The handle for carpentry chisels and chisels is best made from beech or curly birch. Its length should be at least 16 cm, so that it is more convenient to work with two hands.

The tails of carpentry chisels and chisels are hammered into precisely drilled holes so that the axes of the handle and tool coincide. Instead of drilling holes, they can be burned with the hot tail of the tool itself. Such a burnt hole (by 4/5 of the length of the tail) tightly compresses all the irregularities of the tail and more evenly transfers the blow from the handle to the cutting part.

On top of the handle, it is recommended to fill a piece of thick sole leather, which protects the tree from cracking. The top of the handle must be beveled, and a metal washer should be put on the tail, which increases the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport. The most popular set of chisels and chisels includes chisels with a width of 8-, 12- and 25-30 mm, chisels with a width of 6-8 and 1.4 mm and a carpenter's chisel with a width of 18 mm.
Chisels are sharpened at an angle of 25°, chisels - from 10° to 25°.

In order for the spiked connection to come out tight, it is necessary to cut a hole, leaving the marking risks visible along the entire contour. Holes need to be cut only with chisels. Chisels are hammered only in very fine details, performing finishing work. In all other cases, when working with a chisel, pressure on it (or a blow on it) must be done by hand. The chisel must be held perpendicular to the surface of the product. It is impossible to break out the chips by deflecting the bit sideways, since the edges of the hole will definitely be crushed, and the work will turn out to be sloppy. Marking is carried out using a thickness gauge and a square.

In carpentry, marking is done with an awl. In order for the hole to be accurate, chiselling must begin, deviating from the risks by 1-1.5 mm. The first blow should not be strong so that the tool does not cut deeply and forms a small support plane that does not allow crushing the fibers during deep cutting. If you hit hard at once, the chisel will crush the fibers and go beyond the risks; there will be no cleanliness. It is desirable to cut through holes from two sides.
Chiseling holes and sockets with a chisel can be successfully replaced by drilling. It requires much less effort and time and in inexperienced hands gives better results. To create right angles, the drilled hole is cleared with a chisel. Holes in wood with a diameter of up to 12 mm are recommended to be made with metal-cutting drills sharpened at an angle of 60″. Holes from 12 to 20 mm must be drilled with spiral rotary drills, and over 20 mm - with special flat drills (perks), resembling a spatula in shape.

Drills must be purchased with a two-way end and a single-start rod. Such drills are less clogged with chips. Double-start borers enter the wood with great difficulty and become clogged with chips (especially if the wood is dry or serrated). When buying perks, you need to pay attention to the distance from the edges of the perk to the center. If the cutting pen (roader) is closer to the center than the other edge of the perk, then the tool will not work, no matter how sharp it is sharpened. The distance from the center to the opener should be 1 mm greater than the distance to the edge of the opener, and the trailer feather should be at least 3 mm lower than the opener. When drilling hard wood, the thick center does not let the drill in, which is why you have to press hard on the brace. In this case, the center must be turned.

Grinding of borers is done with small files - needle files, and perk - on corundum. To facilitate drilling, the wood is moistened - water is poured into the hole, and the work goes easier. With wide perks it is very convenient to choose grooves in logs when arranging pickups - with an ax it remains only to remove parts of the log between the drilled holes. It is not recommended to drill boards with the so-called spoon or "Russian" drills: they are easy to split. Drills are drilled along the fibers, at the end.

The most convenient brace with a ratchet and a central chuck that allows you to clamp drills with any tail. They are ball-bearing, easy to move and allow you to work in corners and against the wall, where circular movements cannot be made.
Tools for planing (plows or planers) are metal and wooden. Metal ones glide worse on wood, but wear out little, have a good clamp and mechanical feed of glands. This makes them very comfortable to work with. Metal planes are especially good when working with used materials. Steel planes are better than duralumin, but many craftsmen prefer only wooden ones.

For gouging logs, a planer with a single piece of iron 65 mm wide and a block length of 450-500 mm (medvedka) is used. Medvedka is planed together, for which two handles are attached to it - crossbars. One pulls the plane towards itself, the other pushes.
Rough gouging of the sawn surface of the boards is done with a sherhebel (preferably steel), since the surfaces of the boards are often covered with dust, sand, and cement. The narrower the gap between the blade and the block, the more difficult it is to plan a raw or roughly sawn wood, so a bear and a sherhebel intended for rough gouging should have a gap of 5-6 mm.

Scherhebel planed at an angle to the direction of the fibers. The rest of the planes - along the fibers. For shavings of serpentine and places near knots, short planers with a double piece of iron and a narrow notch (grinders) are used. When sticking plywood on shields, their surfaces are cut with a cynubel - a planer with a jagged piece of iron set very steeply to the sole. If you insert an ordinary double piece of iron into the cynubel, then you can cut with it in the same way as with a grinder that removes very thin chips. The processing of the ends is carried out with a planer in such a position that its piece of iron is at an angle to the direction of planing.

For clean work (smoothing planes or edges), planers with a single and double piece of iron are used, as well as a jointer designed for particularly precise work.

The cutting of folds and quarters, for example, in door and window frames, as well as in bindings, for inserting glass, is carried out with a zenzubel and a folded fold, which is often called a selector or chetvertochnik. It is recommended to have a zenzubel with a straight piece of iron set perpendicular to the direction of the sole, since a straight zenzubel can plan in both directions, and with an obliquely set piece of iron - only in one direction.
Obtaining figured edges and curved surfaces refers to purely carpentry work, rarely found in the practice of an amateur builder. They are planed with special plows: kalevkas, fillets, which have figured pieces of iron.

When choosing new blocks, you must be guided by the following rules: the best blocks are maple, hornbeam or beech, glued along. Solid red beech lasts are sometimes warped by damp air, so after adjusting and fitting they need to be painted with oil varnish. When buying a block, it is necessary to check the correctness of its sliding plane (sole), so that there is no “screw”. The squareness of the side walls to the bottom plane should also be checked, especially for jointers. In order for the piece of iron to be moved sideways with an accurate fit of the cutting edge and the sole of the planer, it must be 1-1.5 mm narrower than the groove.

A block with a wedged piece of iron should have a gap in the notch from the cutter to the tree: in single planers - 4, in double and jointers - 2, in zenzubels and kalevkas - 3 mm. The wedge should come to naught so that chips do not rest against its lower edge.
In most new blocks of zentoubels, selectors and moulds, the ejection hole is only outlined, and you have to finish it yourself. In such pads, you need to make a special cutout with a drill. To avoid spalling, it is necessary to drill from two sides. From such a hole, the chips easily come out by themselves or are pushed out with a finger.

It is recommended to buy thin pieces of iron, as thick ones, hardened to the full thickness, are more difficult to sharpen. Welded irons are the most convenient: they have a thinner steel cutting plate welded onto a soft iron base.
The convenience of working with a planer largely depends on the correct sharpening of the piece of iron. In inexperienced hands, the chamfer of the piece of iron usually turns out to be humpbacked and quickly becomes dull from this. For proper sharpening, it is not difficult to make a special device. By pushing or pushing the piece of iron, you can get the required sharpening angle. After stripping the piece of iron on coarse corundum and having a wet point, it must be directed to the touchstone. Such grinding of the tip doubles the period of work between points.
The sharpening angle is changed depending on the moisture content and hardness of the wood being processed. For wet and soft wood, the sharpening angle is 30-35°, for dry and hard wood -40-45°. The quality of the metal of a piece of iron can be determined in the following way: if the cloudy spot that appears when breathing on a piece of iron disappears quickly, then the quality of the steel is good. The good quality of the steel is also evidenced by the scale that has crumbled from the cutting part.

In addition to the listed devices and tools for carpentry and joinery, you need to have a 10 m long cord for marking logs, a plumb line, a square, a folding ruler and a tape measure. Marking devices: scriber, sliver, bracket - you can make it yourself.

In carpentry, the obligatory marking tools are a thickness gauge and an awl of a rhombic section with a sharp end. In addition to marking with this awl, holes are pricked for screwing.

Types of planers, checking pads: 1 - planer; a - side view (dotted line shows the location of the incisor); b - a block glued horizontally; in - a block glued vertically; 2 - checking the correctness of the block
square; 3 - jointer (the triangle shows the places of impact with a mallet for knocking out a piece of iron); 4 - selector (quadruple); 5 - zenzubel; 6 - kalevka

Irons (cutters) and devices for the point: 1 - a piece of iron of a sherhebel; 2 - piece of iron double planer (joiner): a - rear view; b - side view; 3 - piece of iron of the selector (four-handler); 4 - zenzubel piece of iron: a - straight; b - oblique; 5 and 6 - pieces of iron; 7 - fillet iron; 8 - a device for the correct point of the piece of iron; 5 - sealing bars into a board; 10 - sharpening angles of pieces of iron: a - for hard wood; b - for raw and soft wood

In carpentry and joinery work, you also have to use some general-purpose locksmith tools - pliers, wire cutters, screwdrivers of various kinds and sizes, pliers, files.

“When buying files, you need to check the strength of the steel. This is done with a piece of hacksaw blade; if after running the blade with a slight pressure on the plane of the file a strong shine appears, the steel is soft and the file will not work for a long time.

Sanding, sharpening and trimming of logs: 1 - sharpening of logs under the bracket with a bear: a - staples; b - bracket; in - reception of the guard; g - bear; 2 - strengthening the log in the clamp at the stop, beating the line of the prosthesis with the help of a cord; 3 - strengthening the log with brackets; 4 - the direction of the ax during the cutting: a - correct; b - incorrect; 5 - drawing the most advantageous section of the beam from the thin end of the log

Wooden structures for construction come in the form of ready-made elements - arches, semi-farms, trusses, girders, beams, partition panels, window and door blocks. Wooden structures and products in construction are accepted according to the passport, specifications and by external examination. Upon acceptance, they check compliance with the requirements of the project, the accuracy of parts, connections, assembly units, etc. Mostly finished window and door blocks are received for construction, however, joiners sometimes perform the following work: they assemble window and door blocks from elements, mount built-in cabinets, install window sills, partitions, vestibules, lay parquet of various designs, assemble trusses, elements of roofs, ceilings.

Wooden structures are accepted by external inspection, checking the dimensions. The dimensions of the structures must correspond to the dimensions given in the working drawings, taking into account the allowable deviations. When accepting window and door blocks, they check the correctness of their installation, caulking, the correct hanging of bindings, door panels and the installation of platbands.

Upon acceptance of parquet flooring, the strength of their fastening to the base, horizontalness, and tightness of the connection of the flooring elements are checked.

At construction sites, carpenters assemble prefabricated houses, ceilings, roofs, joiners assemble windows, doors, built-in furniture and other elements, parquet workers lay parquet floors.

Control questions. 1.Tell us about the purpose of buildings, their number of storeys.

2. Tell us about the durability, fire resistance of buildings and structures.

3. What structural elements are buildings made of? 4. What is the purpose of bearing and enclosing structures? 5. What kind of work do carpenters, joiners, parquet workers perform at construction sites? 6. List the general construction work performed at construction sites.

X2

Chapter IV

DESIGNSBASIC JOINERY- BUILDINGPRODUCTS

§ 16. Types, purpose and methods of manufacturing formwork and inventory scaffolding

Formwork. In the construction of buildings and structures made of monolithic concrete and reinforced concrete, formwork is used. Formwork is a form in which reinforcement and concrete mixture or one concrete mixture are placed in order to obtain the required building structures. The shape and internal dimensions of the formwork must correspond to the dimensions and shape of reinforced concrete and concrete structures specified by the project.

The formwork must have exact dimensions in accordance with the working drawings, be strong and rigid. It should not be deformed under the influence of technological loads and interfere with the convenience of installing reinforcement and compacting the concrete mixture. According to its design, the formwork must ensure compliance with the geometric dimensions of the concreted elements, the speed of its installation and dismantling, the convenience of repair and replacement of unusable elements, and minimal adhesion to concrete. Heating (thermosetting) formwork should provide a uniform temperature on the shield deck, and temperature differences should not exceed 5 °C. It is used mainly in winter and to accelerate the setting of concrete in the summer.

The formwork should not have holes and crevices and pass cement laitance (when filling with concrete mix).

Wooden formwork can be used for concreting up to 30 times. The reuse of formwork is called turnover. It is recommended to use inventory formwork, which is easy to assemble and disassemble. It is necessary to disassemble the formwork carefully so as not to break or spoil the boards, shields.

The use of inventory formwork in the form of shields increases its turnover. Inventory formwork has unified dimensions, so it can be used for concreting various building structures with dimensions that correspond to the main module.

Coupling bolts, tie rods and other fastening elements should be inventory, easy to install and remove.

To increase the inventory formwork turnover, as well as to obtain a smoother surface after concreting, the formwork is covered with polyethylene film.

Depending on the structures of the buildings under construction, various formwork types. Collapsible small-panel inventory unified formwork is used for concreting various types of monolithic structures, including curved 6" . 83

Rice. 56. Unified panels of wooden collapsible formwork:

A- for foundations, walls, columns, slabs, ceilings, b- for strip foundations, beams, purlins and frame crossbars; / - deck, 2 - sewing strap

linear outline. Collapsible-adjustable large-panel formwork is used in the construction of large-sized massive structures, walls; horizontally sliding (rolling) - when constructing tunnels, collectors, conduits, etc.; volume-adjustable - in the construction of residential and public buildings.

Most often, a wooden collapsible formwork is used, consisting of separate panels (Fig. 56) and ribs supporting them, contractions, screeds. In some cases, the formwork is supported by scaffolding, consisting of racks, braces, etc.

There are certain requirements for materials used for the manufacture of formwork. The moisture content of wood for supporting elements (racks, etc.) should be no more than 22 %, and for the deck - no more than 18%. For the manufacture of supporting elements of the formwork, it is allowed to use round timber and sawn softwood of at least 2nd grade, for the manufacture of decks - sawn timber of the 2nd grade of softwood and hardwood.

Boards are allowed to be made of fibreboard (GOST 4598-86), bakelized plywood (GOST 11539-83) and plywood of the FSF brand (GOST 3916.1-89), protected by a waterproof coating.

Formwork boards directly adjacent to concrete must have a milled surface and a width of up to 150 mm, and horizontally sliding formwork boards - a width of not more than 120 mm. Wider boards are not used, as they warp.

Rice. 57. Workbench for the manufacture of large-panel panels:

/ - emphasis for contractions, 2 - emphasis for deck boards, 3 - nests for ribs,

4 - nests for fights, 5 - stop for ribs and deck boards (£ - length

shield, L]- distance between the axes of contractions)

Decayed, rotten, tobacco knots and a wormhole on the boards are unacceptable, as their presence reduces strength. Falling knots are sealed with stoppers on waterproof glue.

Rice. 58. Workbench for the manufacture of small panels of collapsible formwork:

"workbench scheme, b- a method of driving nails, in - a removable socket designed by H. P. Gakhov; / - thrust bar for the ends of the boards of the shield, 2 - steel strip for bending nails, 3 - persistent ruler (rail) for sewing strips, 4 - workbench cover 5 - Reiki, forming a nest for the sewn boards of the shield, b - thrust bar for the boards of the shield, 7 - nails, S- shield boards, 9 - sewing strap

The wooden parts of the formwork are fastened with nails with a diameter of 2 ... 6 and a length of 50 ... 150 mm, steel bolts and brackets with a diameter of 12 ... 19 and a length of 250 ... 300 mm, as well as a wire with a diameter of 3 ... 4 mm.

Formwork elements are made in special workshops with a department for the manufacture of formwork parts and a department for assembling formwork elements from finished parts.

Large-panel shields are assembled on workbenches (Fig. 57), on which there are stops for fights and deck boards, as well as nests for ribs and fights. On this workbench, shields are assembled from pre-prepared boards and bars. After assembly, bolt holes are placed and drilled on the surface of the shields.

Small shields are assembled on the workbenches shown in fig. 58, in templates. You need to rally the shields firmly. The front side of the shields, adjacent to the concrete, must be processed and not have pins. Sewn strips are nailed to the boards, and the nails must be well bent and sunk into the wood.

Clamps for column formwork, frames for column formwork are assembled from prefabricated parts. Permissible deviations from the design dimensions of the formwork should not exceed the values ​​\u200b\u200bgiven in Table. 7. Table 7. Permissible deviations from the design dimensions of the formwork, mm

Scaffolding to support the formwork. To maintain the formwork of reinforced concrete floors and other building structures, floor-by-floor (up to 6 m high) and rack-mount (more than 6 m high) scaffolds are used.

Floor scaffolding(Fig. 59) are a structure assembled from racks and braces. Racks are installed on logs,

Rice. 59. Scaffolding for supporting formwork:

1 - concrete floor, 2 - racks, 3 - braces (flares), 4 - lags under the racks, 5 - concrete floor 6 - lining to transfer the load to the racks of the lower floor

laid on the base (concrete floor). For greater stability, the racks are fixed with braces. On different floors, the racks are located on the same vertical axis. This is necessary so that the loads from the upper floor are evenly transferred to the racks of the lower floor. Lags under the racks must be located strictly horizontally.

Floor scaffolding is assembled, as a rule, from racks of constant height, made of beams or round wood. It is not allowed to replace the bars with boards, even knocked together. Racks having a height of 3 to 6 m are embroidered with one another with braces in two mutually perpendicular directions, with the lower braces being performed at a distance of at least 1.8 m from the floor, and the upper ones at a distance of 1.6 m from the bottom of the formwork. The upper braces are usually used as scaffold supports when stripping. In addition, diagonal braces are made through one and two rows of racks.

For making racks rack scaffolding use round wood with a diameter of up to 160 mm or bars with a section of 130X130 mm. Along the length, the round wood is increased by cutting half a tree and fastened with a wire twist or a steel clamp. When installing the racks in place, it is necessary to ensure that the joints of the rack connections are spaced apart in height.

Rack scaffolding is fixed in two mutually perpendicular directions with braces, which give stability to the scaffolding and at the same time serve as a support for scaffolding during formwork and concrete work. Braces designed for

scaffold support, made of boards with a section of 40X 120 or 40X 150 mm, cut into a rack and fastened with nails (3 pcs.) Or bolts. Diagonal braces are made of boards 25X 120 ... 150 mm and installed around the entire perimeter of the building.