Do-it-yourself warm beds in a greenhouse: device, formation, useful tips. Preparing beds in a greenhouse in autumn How to make warm beds in a greenhouse

Of course, it will take time to make them (perhaps you don’t have it), but if you like, as they say, to “dig” in the ground and practically live in your favorite area, then I’m sure you will definitely find this time. You can also build high beds for yourself to begin with, they differ to some extent in their content and design from warm ones.

Warm beds production. How and what should be done?

Let's first determine the time of their manufacture. Best to do this fall. At this time, we have enough organic matter, and there is not as much work on the site as it happens in the summer. At the same time, you will enjoy doing this work, because you will work for the future. In the spring, when you put such warm beds into operation, you can safely expect an increase in the yield of the same cucumbers, as well as other common crops, such as tomatoes, more tender (in terms of cultivation) peppers with eggplant.

How to do?

What is the very essence in the manufacture of such a variety of beds? There are 2 options here: create boxes, or they can be replaced, just with a trench. In terms of size, both the box and the trench should be: in depth - 40 or 50 centimeters, in width - 80, but they can have a length of 3 meters and 4, and more, up to 6 meters. In the fall, any organic matter is poured into such beds made by one's own hands. Spring will come, they begin to water this organic matter, and it begins to warm up with an increase in temperature. Further, right in this organic matter, you make the holes you need in depth, plant plants, and let them grow there, in warmth. Since these beds turned out to be completely organic, there is no need to doubt the usefulness of nutrition for the same cucumbers you grow (there may be other crops). If such a bed is also organized in a greenhouse or in any greenhouse, then the result will be even better.

Organics in warm beds are not just thrown randomly. There is also a sequence here. You need to start with coarse material (tree branches, hard stems from sunflower or corn, etc.), which are laid on the very bottom. Further, our task is to help this hard material turn into a delicate organic. To do this, the preparation "Shine-3" is poured on top of it, it is he who will accelerate the decomposition of those materials that you throw at the bottom of the beds. They scatter such a preparation with approximately the same movements as they do with salt when pickling cabbage.

If you simply don’t have such a hard material, then you can put plastic bottles on the bottom. I think you can collect the right amount of them without problems, of course, they must be empty, and their neck must be closed. What do bottles do? They simply cut off the cold that will come in the spring from the still cold soil. You need to lay the bottles only once, then they will serve you until the end of the “work” of your warm bed. On top of the bottles, again, you can sketch the same branches, or something else.

Layer number 2, this is directly organic matter itself. It can be any, a layer of 20 centimeters. From above, we simply trample it well with our feet. After that, we again scatter “Shine-3”, and in order for the process to start, for the starter it will be necessary to add more soil - only 2 or 3 centimeters.

We pour the next layer, number 3. The 2nd layer we poured was completely dry. Third, we start with green grass. It is needed as the main supplier of nitrogen, and besides that, it will also give your vegetables a lot of the microorganisms they need. Next, on the green grass, lay also dry. Again, we also ram all this with our feet, pour in “Shine-3”, and pour in a layer of soil of the same thickness.

Layer number 4, completely repeats the 3rd. That's practically all when creating such warm beds, but there are still some secrets for arranging such beds:

if you decide to use bottles, then make beds all 50 centimeters in depth; without them, 40 will be quite enough;
when you finish laying two layers, you need to find buckets, put them upside down in accordance with your future planting pattern;
the buckets will then need to be removed, and in those recesses from them that are necessarily formed, we fill the soil with compost (you need to mix both components 1: 1); We notice these places with pegs, they will serve as markers for you;

Now your warm bed is fully equipped, you can safely count on an increase in yield. For you, there is also a video where you will be shown and told all this. We look.

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What are the terms for the manufacture of greenhouses

In the contract, in most cases, the terms are 30 working days, with an indication in the contract of early performance of work by the Seller. The exception will be orders from 1 ha and non-standard individual orders.

Arched structures are always in stock in the range of 2000 - 4000 m2.

What is the payment procedure?

Of course, the amount of the prepayment can be negotiated, but the standard payment under the contract is:

The first payment after the conclusion of the contract is 60% , until the order is processed. If the structure is galvanized, the advance payment will be 80%, the second payment, the rest 40% / 20% respectively paid by the customer within 3 banking days, before shipment of the order in full.

How is the installation of greenhouses? What are the solutions to this issue.

Installation is carried out:

1. By the forces of the customer. The package includes a detailed installation manual, with 3D images, photographs and a detailed description of all components. Assembly is carried out on clamps, self-tapping screws and bolted joints without the use of welding.

In case of difficulties, we provide a free online consultation

2. Service "supervised installation" We will provide a service for a specialist to visit your site, the cost of which is 4.500 rubles / day + transportation costs and accommodation. A separate contract is drawn up for this service.

3. Turnkey installation.

Departure of the brigade to the customer's site with all the necessary equipment. The average cost of such installation is 200 rubles / m2. The minimum construction area is 1000 m2.

What guarantees does your company provide?

Seleco guarantees the welding seam as the manufacturer of the product. The materials that are included in the supply and were produced by other enterprises according to certain specifications give their own certificates (galvanizing plant, metal-roll, engines, gearboxes, etc.) and the return of their products, in case of failure or breakdown, is carried out within the established contract terms.

How much does a block greenhouse cost

Block greenhouse:

1100 rub/m2 construction with roof ventilation, 2 layers of film (suction system), side ventilation, automatics, black (unpainted) metal;

1450 rub/m2 block construction in zinc + the systems listed above.

Structures can be completed on request:

Side gutters

Additional facades (technical area, vestibule)

Irrigation systems, fog, heating, shading, etc.

What is the basic order of cost for your greenhouses?

Basic prices for the design and its varieties

Arched greenhouse:

750 rub/m2 ferrous metal; 1 layer of film (Ukraine Planet Plastik); 2-sided side ventilation. Side ventilation is supplied as standard.

850 rub/m2 pressurization system + second layer of film;

1100 rub/m2 electric roof ventilation along the entire length of the greenhouse; + automation;

1350 rub/m2 galvanized construction (hot-dip galvanizing) + the previously listed systems are included. The galvanizing service is provided by the Sedin plant, the actual cost of the service is calculated upon the application for a greenhouse and is relevant for 10 (ten) days.

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Warm beds in the greenhouse

Beds in a greenhouse for a good harvest: we place them correctly and equip the “pillow” In soil-type greenhouses, all vegetables are grown on beds, so the yield will directly depend on the layout and quality of the soil. You can’t place beds in 2-3 tiers, which limits the number of plants planted. This means that productivity should be achieved not by the number of seedlings, but by the level of care. And the first thing that affects fruiting is sunlight. If the beds in the greenhouse are not sufficiently lit, then the ovary will form weakly, the stems will begin to stretch in search of the sun, and the leaves will become pale in color. To avoid this, start thinking about the location and arrangement of the beds even before installing the greenhouse.

In which direction of the world should the garden bed look The ideal bed location is west-east. The sun begins to illuminate it from dawn and does not leave the structure until sunset. True, not every owner will be able to put a greenhouse in this way for lack of space. In this case, arrange the beds so that they get as much light as possible before noon, because tender shoots are most afraid of cold morning temperatures. The option, when the sun illuminates the beds only after lunch, will significantly reduce the yield. During the night, a greenhouse that has cooled down will not be able to warm up until lunchtime, and the midday heat will inflict severe burns on the sprouts that have frozen overnight.

The location of the beds in greenhouses of various shapesIdeally, when the shape of the greenhouse is selected for the plants that they plan to grow. But how to arrange beds in a greenhouse if the structure is already on the site or purchased? In this case, the layout is carried out based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe internal space. So, the location of the beds in the greenhouse is narrow, but long, limited by the lack of width. The best option would be two side beds with a central aisle. The width of the ridge is chosen so that it is possible to take care of the plants while standing on the aisle. Standard option - 2 * 95 cm + half a meter track. If the width of the greenhouse is not enough for these parameters, you will have to choose what to sacrifice: the size of the beds or the passage. A garden wheelbarrow will not pass along a path less than 50 cm, and it will be difficult to squeeze through with two buckets. You will have to take out weeds or bring in seedlings, soil manually, which, of course, takes time, and takes more effort.

You can reduce the size of the beds. By the way, plants like narrow ridges more: the illumination is higher in them, and the air passes better. Therefore, feel free to cut the width to 45 cm. The absence of the third row of seedlings is compensated by the first two, giving a high yield. In wide greenhouses, the most common layout is 3 + 2: 3 beds + 2 passes. The central ridge can be twice as wide as the side ones (but not more than 1.5 m), because there is access to plants from both sides. Passages are often made the same (50-70 cm), but you can save usable space by making one path for driving with a wheelbarrow, and narrowing the second and walking along it without garden tools.

Layout options for greenhouses of various shapes

Gable greenhouse

In gable structures, height often prevails over other parameters, therefore it is recommended to grow tree seedlings in them. At the same time, the layout of the beds in the greenhouse is as follows: in the center there is a wide bed, from the sides - narrow passages. Placing seedlings in the center helps to avoid their contact with the walls or the beginning of the roof and ensure a uniform supply of warm air.

arched greenhouse

In such forms there is no significant height, but the interior space warms up faster. It is recommended to grow vegetables and flowers in arched structures. The beds are usually divided into two side beds with a central aisle or into the 3 + 2 layout described above.

To what height does a warm bed rise in a greenhouse

The standard height is 20 cm. It is created using bulk earth, limiting the edges of the beds with boards made of boards. If you plan to grow early-ripening vegetables and herbs immediately with the arrival of spring, then the height should be raised to 80 cm to ensure accelerated heating of the soil. But at such a height, the earth quickly dries up, so a container with water must be placed nearby so that there is something to moisten the soil. If the greenhouse has an electric heating system for the beds, then the layout is carried out on the basis of the wiring diagram that comes with all the equipment.

How to make the beds in the greenhouse warm: arrangement options

The use of warm beds extends the terms of growing plants. They can be planted several weeks earlier than in traditional low beds, because the temperature of heating the earth and air inside the structure will be higher due to the release of a large amount of heat from the rotting organic "cushion". Such pillows can be made in different ways, depending on what kind of raw materials you have.

manure thermal cushion

The basis for the beds is horse manure. This is the “hottest” type of manure during decomposition, because in the first days it warms up to 70 degrees, and then keeps a 30-degree temperature for about 20 days. If there is no horse, you can replace it with cow, pork or sheep. To make the decomposition process in it more intensive, add 1/3 of the straw mixed with sawdust. Before making beds in the greenhouse, they let the manure lie down so that the process of decay begins. As soon as the temperature inside the heap has reached 45 degrees, you can begin to form beds.

A 15-centimeter layer of sawdust is laid at the bottom of the future bed,on top of which a 30-centimeter layer of rotten manure is laid out, carefully compacting everything. Spilled with boiling water and let it brew for a couple of days. Then fertile soil is poured on top: ready-made soil or soil mixture created by one's own hands (soddy soil, peat, humus and sawdust are mixed in equal proportions). Thermal cushion without manure If it is not possible to purchase manure, then you can get by with the raw materials that are on each site.

The bottom layer is a finely chopped tree (branches, bark, hemp, knots, waste boards, etc.). On top of it is food waste, peeling potatoes, green mass from weeds (without seeds!), Tops, etc. 3rd layer - sawdust, fallen leaves, waste paper, rags.

From above it is spilled with urea or diluted bird droppings.

Decomposition accelerators are added (if possible).

The “pillow” is lightly rammed and covered with a black film for heating. A week later, the finished "pie" is covered with a 30-centimeter layer of soil and seedlings are planted.

Methods for fencing greenhouse beds

To avoid soil shedding and give the beds the desired geometry, the edges must be protected with sides. What can be used as a fence?

Boards

The most commonly used version of the sides. The boards are knocked together to the desired height and fixed to wooden pegs driven into the ground. This option is short-lived: during the season, in conditions of greenhouse humidity, the board rots, and next year a new fence will have to be put together. Therefore, it is worth laying a layer of roofing material between the board and the soil. Another minus: ants like to settle in the board.

Sides of pieces of slate or metal profiles

If the household has the remains of slate from the roof or sheets of metal profiles from the fence, they can be cut into strips of the desired height and installed along the edges of the beds. Such sides have high strength, but there is a risk of injury on sharp edges if the cutting was done carelessly.

Concrete or brick walls

For concrete sides, it is necessary to mount the formwork in advance and pour a liquid concrete solution into it. The soil is covered only after solidification. Bricklaying also takes time. But such a fence can be raised to any height and used for many years. Minus: non-separable sides are inconvenient during the annual change of greenhouse soil. The earth will have to be thrown over them, which requires physical effort.

A well-thought-out arrangement of beds in a greenhouse will save your energy on caring for plants and create better living conditions for the "green inhabitants".

When the long-awaited first days of spring come, it only seems to us that everything around is melting and warming up very quickly. In fact, you need a colossal amount of thermal energy from the sun, which is still weak in March, to warm the earth - it is not easy to find snow in the far from the most northern regions of Russia in May. It would seem that nature does its own thing - and in due time, but some people still need a really warm earth already in early March - those who keep greenhouses. After all, it is known that valuable heat is needed not only by plants, but by their roots - otherwise they can quickly die. Moreover, the heat is constant, without sharp fluctuations and night frosts. And for this you really need to heat not the air, but first of all the soil, make warm beds in the greenhouse - and for this there are three most proven methods today: heating with a cable, pipes with water and compost inside the bed itself. We will reveal to you the essence of each of these methods, and you just have to decide what exactly suits you.

Option # 1 - we heat the garden bed with an electric cable

What is the advantage of such bed heating over compost? In simplicity and the ability to constantly control the temperature of the soil with an accuracy of one degree, which is simply necessary when growing especially capricious plants.

Put the cable itself on the geotextile - it allows water to pass through, but holds the soil, and therefore the weeds immediately die, and the earth quickly becomes soft and loose - which is good, of course. Lay the cable deep enough, mice don’t dig like that, and the mole doesn’t gnaw through this - by 40 cm. The standard laying step is 15 cm.

It is best to take Green Agro to create warm greenhouse beds - such wires are used today wherever possible: for heating roofs, floors, and even in plumbing systems. And you need to configure the entire system like this: as soon as the heating of the cable reaches 25 ° C, the power should turn off. On average, even in March, electricity consumption will be about 20 kW per greenhouse, but in April it will drop to 9 kW, which is not at all expensive. Radish alone, such warm beds in the spring give as many as three crops!

Most of the electricity, of course, will go away in the first days - the soil will defrost and thaw, but every day much less heat will be needed. For accuracy, additionally purchase a thermostat - it will help to constantly maintain the temperature that is needed. In addition, it will take into account the sunshine of the day and the weather outside the greenhouse, determining the frequency of turning on the heating.

Option # 2 - we heat the bed with pipes

Long before the advent of electric cable and warm infrared floor, the beds in greenhouses were heated with pipes - they simply ran them underground and let warm water through them. Outside, the water came out already cooled and was again heated in the boiler. Very quickly, gardeners realized that it was easier and more economical to heat just a few beds than to heat the entire greenhouse at once, and even more so its air, which, of course, rushed up when heated. And warm beds with pipes proved to be effective. As for the boiler, for these purposes it is better to take a gas one, and to circulate water in the system, purchase a pump and an automatic thermostat.

Take pipes for arranging such a warm bed from copper or plastic. The latter are good because they are cheap, light and resistant to corrosion.

The main advantage of this method of making warm beds with your own hands is the simultaneous heating of both air and soil.

Option # 3 - we warm the soil with a natural method

You can start organizing such beds as soon as the snow melts. It is good if the greenhouse will stand in a sunny, spacious place - for each bed you will need about a meter wide.

First of all, make sure that you do not leave water - it will be needed for the process of decay and temperature release. Therefore, if your soil is peaty, lay a layer of scalded sawdust at the very bottom of the bed or cover it with an old cloth. Pour the litter itself with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The second layer will be various plant residues, which in the fall can be collected quite a lot. Even the leaves fit. Lay everything on the bottom of the bed and add some soil, sprinkle with chalk or wood ash, 2 cups per square meter.

Do the third layer of a warm bed like this: six buckets of peat or humus, a bucket of sand and a little bit of sawdust, mix and add 1 tbsp. superphosphate, urea, 2-3 tbsp. wood ash, 1 tsp potassium sulfate, 1.5 tsp. boric acid and 1 tsp. zinc sulfate. This is a classic blend.

Now water your bed top and sides with five to ten buckets of warm water per square meter. After that, cover it with a film for a week or two. After this time, remove the film and moisten the bed - as soon as it settles, you can start planting.

You need to plant it like this:

In the center of the ridge, make an earthen roller, thereby dividing it into two parts - so rain and irrigation water will flow directly into the holes.
On both sides we make large holes 60 cm apart. Depth - on the bayonet of a shovel, width - like a three-liter jar (you can even use it for the convenience of forming holes).
We sow dry seeds in each hole, on top we fall asleep with a layer of earth from 2 to 5 cm.
We water and cover the finished bed with a transparent film - better reinforced. Fasten it to the sides of the fence or simply press it to the ground with stones. So the bed can warm up even more.

In fact, the hole itself, made in this way, is a small greenhouse - the seeds in it are warm and humid, they quickly swell and hatch. They grow until they literally stick into a stretched film. By this time, they will have more than one true leaf, and it is important not to let them overheat under the film during this period - especially on a sunny spring day. The sapling has grown and has already buried itself? Make a cross-shaped incision over the hole, bend the corners inward, and help the plant straighten out. And it doesn’t matter if all the seeds have sprouted in the hole - leave everything, they have enough space and the harvest will surely please. If, at the moment when the plant already needs to be released into the wild, and the weather and temperature are not yet pleasing, then simply cover the bed with a special material - better with lutrasil - or put a few arcs and cover them already. It will turn out, as it were, a greenhouse in a greenhouse - that's all.

When it comes to compost, the modern market has also given horticulture another great thing – the garden shredder. This made it possible to easily add valuable nitrogenous materials to the beds - branches, leaves, green tops. Here is the answer, how to make a warm bed without much hassle in the spring, on which sweet peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers will grow with great pleasure.

What else is good about warm beds on compost is a valuable help to the soil itself - after all, monoculture is often grown in greenhouses and greenhouses, and this leads to the fact that the earth “gets tired” quite quickly. Pathogenic spores and bacteria accumulate in it, and greenhouse plants often begin to get sick. As a result, the soil has to be completely changed every three years - and this is not only a particularly time-consuming process, but also unsafe - you don’t know what sores and problems you will bring to the greenhouse with new soil, and what you will have to fight this time.

The device of a warm bed allows you to further enrich it with valuable elements - and without any chemistry. And the best thing, as the long experience of gardening in Russia shows, is to put mowed grass of winter wheat - immature - in such beds. When decomposed, its grains give EM bacteria, and they have a tremendous effect on soil fertility.

A warm bed in a greenhouse can also be arranged with the help of manure - when it starts to “burn”, it gives off such heat that you can almost burn yourself.

Option # 4 - we make a warm bed-greenhouse

Here is the easiest way to make a warm greenhouse bed:

Step 1. Remove the top layer of earth by 20 cm.
Step 2. Install a wooden or galvanized box.
Step 3. Put the grass on the bottom and compact it well.
Step 4. Cover with earth what was taken out.
Step 5. Pour hot water over.
Step 6. Plant the seeds.
Step 7. Place the arcs.
Step 8. Cover with acrylic material.

In the fall, remove the box from this place, dig everything up - the bed will also turn out to be fertilized.

Even in the open air, from a warm bed, you can get a crop a whole month earlier - then what can we say about a greenhouse?

The principle of operation of a warm bed is quite simple. With a lack of solar energy in spring, the warming up of the soil occurs very slowly. Sufficient temperature for planting plants is reached no earlier than the end of April-beginning of May.

If you warm the soil artificially, you can create favorable conditions for planting already in.

At the same time, the roots of plants immediately fall into comfortable conditions, quickly take root and begin development. Part of the heat enters the air and also contributes to its warming.

Creating warm beds in various ways

To the question of how to make a warm bed in a greenhouse, the answer is simple. There are several options for heating the soil in a greenhouse:

IMPORTANT. Do not use fresh manure as a filler, it can burn the roots of plants.

Preparing filler for a warm bed

Beds using biological materials are the most environmentally friendly and at the same time economical. To warm the soil in such a bed does not require the cost of their arrangement and maintenance.

In addition to the thermal effect, this option enriches the soil with nutrients and carbon dioxide. Plants are in warm soil, receive enough nutrition. At the same time, they become disease resistant.

The ideal filler for the beds is a layer of rotted manure. Various plant residues, foliage, cut branches are mixed with it.

If there is no manure, freshly cut grass mixed with food waste, potato peelings may well serve as a filler.

You can fill the garden bed with straw bales, which are watered with a solution of chicken manure or Baikal top dressing.

Last year's tops, mixed with fresh humus, can also be laid in from the fall.

compost bed

The traditional compost heap created on the surface has a large number of disadvantages. It is laid in autumn with a fairly high layer and freezes through in winter. In the icy layers, the process of decay does not go on, which means that decomposition does not occur and by the spring the summer resident does not receive ready-made compost.

In addition, such a high layer will thaw in the spring later than the use of compost will need to be used. Another disadvantage of such a pile is its maintenance in the summer.

The unpleasant appearance and smell, periodically watered with slops, gives a lot of unpleasant sensations. Flies fly over a bunch, maggots begin to crawl along the edge, this phenomenon causes a lot of inconvenience not only to you, but also to your neighbors in the area.

An expedient way to prepare this biofuel is to create a compost trench bed. It is dug to a depth of 40 centimeters, the top layer is deposited, and the pit is covered with plant debris. In autumn, falling leaves are laid in the same trench.

To start the fermentation processes, the vegetable compost filler is spilled with slurry or grass infusion. The surface of the trench can be covered with roofing material or a piece of linoleum. It is better to lay them on poles for air access.

For the winter, the compost trench is covered with a layer of sawdust and covered with a layer of snow to avoid severe freezing.

In spring, the trench becomes a source of effective biofuel for laying in a warm bed.

leaf compost

Fallen leaves are an excellent material for creating compost - biofuel. To obtain compost in a greenhouse for heat generation, two options can be used:

Leaf compost heap for greenhouse heating.. The foliage is laid on the surface of the soil, a certain amount of ready-made compost is added to it to start the decomposition process.
From above, the pile is covered with straw or bags. This is necessary so that the foliage does not dry, but rot. The composting process takes two years. A bunch periodically.
compost pit. For its manufacture, a hole is dug in the ground two meters wide and 30-40 centimeters deep. The bottom is covered with a film or roofing material.
Fallen leaves are laid in layers, each of which is spilled with a solution of saltpeter and sprinkled with a small amount of soddy soil. The next layer is spilled with slurry.
This is followed by a layer spilled with caustic soda. Next, a layer of foliage is laid, sprinkled with wood ash. From above, this sandwich is covered with straw, and then with turf laid down with grass.
After a month, the pit must be loosened for oxygen access and mixing of all layers.

REFERENCE. The use of plant waste and branches as a filler for warm beds solves the problem of plant waste disposal on the site. Instead of being simply destroyed, they will serve as fuel and at the same time fertilizer for other plants.

Photo

The photo shows: the device of warm beds in the greenhouse, heating the greenhouse with manure

Rules for the formation of a warm bed

Process making a warm bed in the greenhouse they begin at the onset of the first warm days. It is made in the form of a trench, in which various fillers are laid in layers.

The main condition for the normal operation of a warm bed is its sufficient volume. The bed is made about 90 centimeters wide, 40 cm deep, the length depends on the size of your greenhouse.

Like any bed in a greenhouse, a warm one must be made using a wooden, metal or any other frame.

This will allow you to get required height, as well as to prevent rash and washing out of the soil in the process of growing vegetables.

REFERENCE. Ready-made aluminum bumpers for beds are very convenient to use. They are durable in use and easy to install.

When laying layers of warm beds, some conditions must be observed:

The bottom layer should contain the largest fractions for slow decay and an increase in the heating period;
When using a layer of turf, it is laid down with grass;
Each laid layer must be shed with liquid, there should not be dry layers in it;
It is impossible to lay plant waste affected by any disease in the garden. Only healthy plants are used.

ADVICE. To protect plants from rodents, a fine-mesh net is laid at the very bottom of the trench.

The bottom of the excavated trench is laid with drainage. The material of the drainage layer depends on the quality of the soil in your area.

On peat soils, the bottom of the trench before branching should be covered with a dense cloth, and a layer of sawdust or crushed tree bark should be poured on it.

This technique will prevent excessive seepage of water during irrigation. On the loam opposite, you need to provide outflow of excess moisture, therefore, the bottom is covered with large branches left when pruning shrubs.

The next layer is biofuel: manure mixed with plant residues or any of the fillers available. To accelerate decomposition, the layer is shed biological product.

The biofuel layer is well compacted and covered with fertile soil. For nutrition, a mixture of peat, humus, earth and sand is prepared. Superphosphate, wood ash, urea, potassium sulfate are also added.

IMPORTANT. Experienced gardeners advise not to lay fertile soil immediately. And after 2-3 days, the biofuel laying field.

The layer of fertile soil should be at least 30 centimeters. All layers are poured with hot water and covered with a black film for heating. A week later, the bed is ready for planting seedlings.

IMPORTANT. If you are an adherent of organic fertilizers, chemical elements can be omitted.

Properly made warm bed in the greenhouse accelerates planting time for seedlings, which means it increases . A greenhouse with such beds does not need to be heated, there is no need to make additional fertilizers. The process of caring for plants is simplified. We hope you now know exactly how to do it yourself in the spring, and also what is the best way to do it.

Useful video

Watch the video: do-it-yourself warm beds in a greenhouse

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Processing a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall is an important step in extending the life of the structure. In addition, the process plays an important role in creating favorable conditions for the growth of crops in the next season. What is the preparation of the greenhouse and beds in the fall?

The process is not carried out if the structure is disassembled for the winter or it is heated. Processing a polycarbonate building is quite simple compared to polyethylene or glass greenhouses.

The process of preparing the greenhouse for winter begins with the removal of debris and vegetation residues. It is necessary to pull out all the roots, stems of crops and weeds. The remains of harnesses, ropes and other auxiliary materials are collected and thrown away.

All fasteners should be checked and tightened if necessary.

Depending on the design of the greenhouse (size, shape, frame), it can be additionally reinforced with props. Such preparation of the greenhouse for winter is carried out to increase strength and resistance to stress. Otherwise, the snow can push through the roof or even break it.

Preparing the beds and digging the ground are optional. However, it is recommended to throw more soil inside so that in winter it does not freeze too deeply. Thanks to this, early crops can be planted in the greenhouse in spring.

The next stage is the disinfection of the premises.

Polycarbonate greenhouse disinfection

How to process a polycarbonate greenhouse? Most often, sulfur checkers are used for this. They are used in the following way. Depending on the size of the greenhouse, one or more checkers are installed on a metal base. Then they are set on fire and a slow smoldering of the substance occurs. In this case, all doors and vents should be tightly closed. The sulfuric gas released during combustion allows you to get rid of not only mold and fungi, but also many insect pests. Moreover, such processing does not affect future vegetables.

The combustion of checkers is carried out in about 1 hour. However, you can open the greenhouse no earlier than a day after the start of processing, and it is advisable to go inside after 3-5 days.

You can also disinfect the surface of the room with special compounds against insects and fungi or Bordeaux mixture. When using solutions, you should take precautions, wear a respirator or mask.

tillage

As mentioned above, preparing the beds before winter is optional. However, you can fertilize the soil. To do this, use compost. It should not contain vegetation collected during the summer: harmful insects or their larvae can live in the thickness of the fertilizer. Therefore, the compost must be rotted. You can use other mineral fertilizers that enrich the soil with minerals.

To protect against freezing, it is recommended to use several methods. You can throw more land, which reduces the level of soil freezing. Another option is to cover the surface of the soil with hay or non-woven fabric. This protection reduces the depth of freezing and allows crops to be planted earlier in the spring. A fairly effective way is to fill the soil with the first snow that has fallen. This solution also protects the soil from freezing.

Thus, processing the greenhouse in the fall after harvesting allows you to create favorable and healthy conditions for the development of future crops. If it is impossible to carry out such processing before wintering, it is carried out in the spring. However, the process should be carried out in early spring, so that the room is fully prepared for early planting.

Soil preparation in a greenhouse (video)

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